When it comes to brunch, Eau Bistro at the Chase Park Plaza Hotel knows what it’s doing. You know you’re in for an incredible experience when you pass through a “gallery” of nearly 25 different desserts en route to your table. The display is stunning, with items garnished with painted chocolate, orange rind or other tasty trinkets; it’s practically a decadent dessert museum.
Overall, brunch at Eau Bistro is a symphony of flavors, a masterpiece in the art of presentation and attention to detail. To appreciate it fully requires a slow, leisurely pace. This isn’t the place to pile your plate, it’s too sumptuous; just take a few items at a time and savor them. For most, the $38 buffet price means this brunch is not a weekly affair, but factor in unlimited Mimosas and Bloody Marys and it’s a bit more palatable.
Our server provided a welcome orientation for first-timers. We decided to start with a visual tour. This was not only helpful in planning our attack, but it gave us a chance to appreciate the beauty of the buffet. No wonder it’s so gorgeous, the staff spends hours setting it up. There’s fresh shrimp, crab claws and oysters, cured and smoked meats and fish, fresh fruit, an array of cold grilled vegetables and an omelet station. One corner features a selection of cheeses, dried fruits, nuts, breads and crackers. It’s hard not to fill up on this, but on my second visit, I remembered to bypass it in favor of house-made desserts for the grand finale.
We began with chilled appetizers. A thin ribbon of sliced cucumber encircling salmon in a Champagne-caper vinaigrette was the ideal starter. Another time, beef tenderloin was rolled with cream cheese and served with corn shoots and Israeli couscous. Chicken terrine, served in a martini glass, was attractive, but lacked flavor. Shot glasses filled with a strawberry purée were the perfect, palate-refreshing sip between courses.
Next we moved on to the cold salads, which offered a nice balance of flavors: the slight spiciness of the Caribbean jerk chicken salad; the cool, refreshing mint from the Israeli couscous; the sweet and tart of the apple-walnut salad with its satisfying crunch. Another time, it was curried couscous with dried cranberries, pasta with feta and olives, and cherry tomatoes and fresh mozzarella with pine nuts, red onion and a light pesto sauce – each tasty on its own, but the trios were well-conceived combinations.
The hot entrées, in general, were less impressive. On one visit the pasta dish was overcooked, though the cream sauce was delicious. Eggs Benedict looked unappetizing in the chafing dish. The egg was hard and it was tough to cut through the English muffin. I was happy with the veggies – glazed carrots and broccoli on one visit (there are plenty of nonmeat items to make a substantial meal). Waffles were golden brown and sweet (drizzle a bit of the strawberry purée on top for a treat – or swirl a little in your Mimosa). The carved pork loin was juicy, but the red-wine sauce was a bit boring. And prime rib was good, but the standout was the honey mustard-glazed ham with an autumnal apple-raisin chutney.
As we circled the desserts, all crafted in-house, it was almost overwhelming in a mouthwatering way: a mélange of pastel-colored meringues, glistening mini fruit-tarts, éclairs, gooey butter squares, lemon tarts, crème brûlée, napoleons and so many perfectly shaped pastries you barely know where to begin. The desserts run the gamut from a light panna cotta with a raspberry gelée to a divine dark chocolate tart crowned with a single, perfect blackberry to the bright flavor of a Key lime cake. The chocolate bread pudding was phenomenal. Rich and dense, it was made with croissants instead of brioche and was finished with a smooth crème anglaise with flecks of vanilla bean. On my second visit, I vaguely remember a crêpe station, but by that time I was in such a heady dessert daze, I couldn’t comprehend another option.
Amber walls and large mirrored tiles give the room a golden feeling. Bask in the glow while you linger over desserts and espresso. If you’re looking for a brunch spot that is truly a feast for the eyes as well as the palate, Eau Bistro is certainly worth the splurge.
This article appears in Nov 1-30, 2007.