When Grace Meat + Three pivoted to a new barbecue concept with a carryout window, I was excited to see what chef-owner Rick Lewis would come up with. I was not disappointed. My first bite of the Grace Backyard BBQ burnt ends belongs in the Terrence Malick montage of meaningful moments in my life. When I tasted them, my husband asked me what was wrong. But I could not tell him. He had to find out for himself.
The burnt ends begin with beef belly and what Lewis calls howdy rub, a riff off pastrami with lots of coriander, black pepper, garlic and some brown sugar. After the meat is smoked and chopped, it’s tossed in a glaze of balsamic vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, brown sugar and brown butter. The burnt ends are super tender with a caramelized crust and an incredibly rich and complex flavor that doesn’t overdo it on the sweetness. Served on Texas toast with pickles and sliced white onion, they are perfect.
This article appears in March 2024.