I’d long thought the cozy Ellendale neighborhood on the western cusp of the city would make a good spot for an American grill-type place, complete with barbecue, roast beef and meatball sandwiches. Turns out I was right, as there’s been such a place there for a long time. The Piccadilly at Manhattan has operated at the intersection of Piccadilly and Manhattan avenues in one form or another since the 1920s. There are a few TVs for the sports fans, a comfy booth for the kids and a beautiful patio for everyone in between.
The menu is large, and while its offerings might seem conventional, many of them bear some distinctive touch. Naturally, you’ll want to try anything with “Piccadilly” in the name. Take the Piccadilly Salad, for example. It’s a large helping of iceberg, Provel, thin slices of Volpi salami and red onion – much like the traditional St. Louis staple – but Parmesan cheese and a vinaigrette house dressing turn this salad into something a little more special.
A full pound of wings may sound like the perfect introductory course from the appetizer menu, but while the house-made sauces (traditional hot or the sweeter “our way”) are irresistible, the wings themselves are small and slightly chewier than desired. The trout taco, a single soft tortilla stuffed with chilled trout, romaine and horseradish-dill sauce, had interesting flavor but was rather small for its price. The spinach-artichoke dip, however, was a hit. Served with buttery house-made crostini that are crunchy but not too crunchy, the tasty, creamy dip delivers the fresh flavors of spinach and nearly whole artichoke hearts.
With its bare store-bought bun, the pulled-pork sandwich isn’t much for presentation, but the meat itself – tender, slightly smoky and drenched in a rich house-made barbecue sauce – is good enough to eat naked. The roasted turkey sandwich sounds ho-hum but delivers complementary savory flavors of toasted, buttery sourdough sprinkled with rosemary; thick-sliced turkey; and a creamy garlic spread with small chunks of artichoke heart. And for the non-meat eaters, there’s a veggie burger with onion, lettuce and tomato on the side. As with most veggie burgers, it’s good but not spectacular.
Picadilly’s entrées are well-suited to the home-style diner in all of us. The fried chicken plate contains four meaty pieces of poultry in a light, finger-licking breading with a side of crisp-tender green beans, and mashed potatoes and gravy. This dish is exceptional, and at $8.99, it’s definitely the best deal on the menu. On the healthier side is the pasta primavera: al dente fettuccine noodles in chicken broth with well-cooked broccoli and large bits of bell peppers. It’s light and very flavorful, though adding shrimp, chicken or salmon for a small extra charge is great for the taste buds and worth every penny. Don’t overlook the daily specials (many done on the grill or in the smoker); frequent selections include lasagna, chicken-fried steak or smoked ribs.
The Picadilly’s home-style menu and home-spun décor are comforting, but the real draw here is the friendly owners and staff, who create the most endearing small-town vibe I’ve ever felt in St. Louis.
<FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS Dine-In-Ability: Cozy booths, bar stools, tables decorated with St. Louis flair and a killer outdoor patio make this a place to sit a spell.
Try It, You’ll Like It: The Piccadilly Salad and the fried chicken.
Feast or Famine: The menu is heavy on meat, but there are veggie options if you look hard enough.
Where: The Piccadilly at Manhattan, 7201 Piccadilly Ave., St. Louis, 314.646.0016
When: Tue. to Sat. – 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.
This article appears in Nov 1-30, 2009.