One of my favorite neighborhoods is DeMun. Nestled between Forest Park and Concordia Seminary and consisting of a handful of shady streets, this quiet enclave evokes a European-village feel. The always-bustling Kaldi’s Coffee House reigns at the north end, right next to Jimmy’s on the Park.
In 2003, Sasha’s Wine Bar opened, adding a perfect place to sit back, enjoy a glass of wine and take in the neighborhood’s constant activity. Now Sasha’s offers a delightful Sunday brunch.
Utterly urban meets completely comfortable for an inviting, relaxing atmosphere. Big, cozy chairs, marble-topped tables, cork floors and a ceiling paneled with wooden wine crates greet diners. Floor-to-ceiling windows and French doors open to a sidewalk patio and a view of the park bordering the seminary. There’s no telling what music you’ll be treated to – sometimes it’s jazz or New Age, other times it’s a hilarious mix of Aimee Mann, Alabama and Amy Grant. Service is friendly and accommodating, and often quite entertaining. Come in jeans and a T-shirt or your Sunday best.
Coffee is served strong and steaming, with a pitcher of fresh cream. Naturally, it’s from Kaldi’s – just two doors down – which creates a custom blend for Sasha’s. You can also start off with a Mimosa or a Bloody Mary – which, upon her first sip, my friend proclaimed the best she’s had. I love lots of horseradish, pepper and spices, so I had to agree. And, of course, there’s wine.
The brunch menu varies weekly, but typical fare includes four variations on eggs Benedict, omelets, French toast and strata. Savory and sweet crêpes are also offered, along with bagels, lox and cream cheese. Eggs New Orleans ($10.95) was a standout. Described as “90 percent crab and 10 percent breading,” well-seasoned crab cakes full of fresh crab, peppers, celery and onion were sautéed, not fried. These were crowned with perfectly poached eggs. The bright yellow yolk was a mellow complement to the tasty cakes and was topped with a hollandaise, whose flavor didn’t overwhelm the balance.
You can’t go wrong with any of the Benedicts. Eggs Benedicto ($9.95) is a toasted English muffin topped with thin, salty slices of Volpi prosciutto. Eggs St. Louis ($11.95) gets its faintly sweet flavor from smoked trout, while Eggs Oslo ($12.95) uses smoked salmon. Recently I’ve been disappointed when ordering poached eggs, receiving nearly hard-cooked yolks instead. Eggs Benedict are meant to have yolks flowing all over the plate, and the eggs at Sasha’s are served properly runny.
French toast ($9.95) is simply sublime. Brioche is soaked in eggs, cream and cinnamon, then baked. Instead of syrup, it is topped with bananas caramelized in brown sugar and Myers dark rum and drizzled with crème fraîche. The only downside of this dish is that there isn’t more on the plate.
The baked strata changes weekly. On one visit, it was smoked trout and salmon, and on another, mushroom. (Spring promises an asparagus, goat cheese and prosciutto variation.) Sliced French baguette is layered with these ingredients and soaked overnight in cream and eggs. It’s then topped with cheese and baked. I tried the prosciutto with peppers, tomatoes, onion and Gruyère. It was light and moist, the saltiness of the prosciutto mingling with the nuttiness of the cheese.
Brunch items are served with wedges of sweet cantaloupe and watermelon, strips of crisp maple-cured bacon and home fries. Finely diced potatoes, colorful peppers and onions are seasoned with pepper and cumin, then fried till golden-brown. They are crunchy, savory and spicy.
If you’re looking for a little taste of springtime in Paris (or a Euro feel year-round), head to Sasha’s.
This article appears in Mar 1-31, 2006.