The first time we went to Iron Barley, Brendan was 2. I can’t recall specific details, but I do remember that Brendan was a happy diner throughout, and that the food was outstanding. So why did it take us more than four years to get back?! There’s really no excuse.
It may have only been our second visit to Iron Barley, but everything seemed at once familiar. Brendan pounced on the table’s paper menus, and was ready with his choice in a matter of seconds – a hot ham and cheese sandwich. Kathy and I both agreed that a hearty sandwich and a cold beer sounded good; she chose the Hot Roast Beef and Chez, while I opted for the roasted chicken sandwich. And, in a stunning departure from the norm, Duncan did not order the same as Brendan, choosing instead a Naked Hot Dog. We also ordered a crab cake appetizer, a special that evening, for all of us to share.
Fortunately the crab cake came quickly, because the wait for our entrées was fairly long. Between the four of us, the crab cake – nice and meaty, with very little filler – only lasted a minute or so. A string of lights that shifted colors kept the boys busy trying to predict what color would be next, but as time stretched on we had to get more creative with our time-killing.
When the big spread did arrive, the table was completely silent but for the sounds of munching and clicking forks for a good few minutes. Duncan quickly divided his hot dog plate into courses (first chips, then frank, then bun), while Brendan munched his sautéed green beans like french fries. Kathy was alternating bites of her sandwich – which was more like a barbecue-style shredded brisket than a traditional hot roast beef – and her pilaf-like side of toasted barley with grilled vegetables. My sandwich’s chicken had a savory, smoky flavor and was falling-apart tender, but there was literally so much meat stuffed in the roll that I ended up pulling it apart just so I could fit it in my mouth.
I was willing to waddle out at that point, but Kathy was on a tear and called for dessert: a slice of Pear Crunch Blaster Pie. All of Iron Barley’s Blaster Pies are old-fashioned freezer pies, which means they’re cold and creamy. In this case, a little too cold; more patient diners might have been able to let the pie defrost a bit, but Kathy wisely pointed out that the longer we waited, the more likely it was that the boys would demand their bites, too.
We next visited on a weeknight, and it made all the difference, as the dining room was far less crowded and our food came with very little wait. Duncan didn’t even bother with a menu, asking right away for “another hot dog.” When our server rattled through the kids’ menu, Brendan picked a cheese pizza. Kathy ordered the schnitzel and spätzle plate, which we’d both eyed the last time.
We again ordered a first course to share, this time a smoked duck salad that our server raved about. The recommendation was well-deserved: succulent slices of duck breast on a salad of lightly grilled romaine leaves; thick, smoky bacon; blue cheese; and grilled apple quarters. Duncan particularly liked the bacon, and Brendan would have eaten every bit of the duck if we’d let him.
Brendan’s pizza was surprisingly large, but with a light crust and an ample share of cheese on top. Kathy’s schnitzel was better than that of most German restaurants we’ve been to; the breading remained crisp, and the spätzle was fresh and perfectly cooked.
I ordered the Monte Cristo Double Dog – basically my admission that while I’m willing to embrace Iron Barley’s eclectic mix of high-quality cuisine and gut-busting grub, I’m still not brave enough to order its hallmark dish, the Ballistic Elvis Sammiche. On the other hand, two quarter-pound beef franks, split and grilled, topped with cheese, then served on toasted buns slathered with strawberry jam has to be worth something. It’s savory, it’s sweet, it’s meaty and fruity.
Iron Barley is just one of those great places that defies categorization. It’s comfort food, to be sure, but with some amazing, creative touches that remind you there’s some real talent back in the kitchen. We found the whole crew there to be exceedingly friendly and eager to answer our questions – and the boys’. Brendan and Duncan are ready to go back as soon as they can; I can guarantee it won’t be a four-year wait.
ADVENTURES IN FAMILY DINING Beyond Chicken Fingers: There’s not an actual kids’ menu, but the kitchen can whip up kid-friendly fare like pizza. A big sandwich selection fills the bill for bigger kids.
Extra Credit: As we were leaving, our server pointed Kathy toward a concealed stash of complimentary chocolates, so we could take an extra treat for the boys.
Recess: Menu items with silly names and the laid-back atmosphere keep kids at ease, but Friday and Saturday nights may be too busy for squirmy tots.
Parent Pluses: A well-considered beer list and great music – often live – keeps things mellow, even in a crowded dining room.
Where: Iron Barley Eating Establishment, 5510 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.351.4500
When: Mon. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
This article appears in Apr 1-30, 2009.