Even without highway closures and economy worries, the restaurant business is a tough one, and established restaurateurs must constantly search for new ways to continue attracting diners. Case in point: Pablo Weiss, who has recently made some changes at his years-old downtown eatery, Kitchen K. In 2003, Weiss revitalized the old space at the corner of 10th and Washington into an überhip spot and helped spark the upswing of the downtown restaurant scene we know today. These days, he’s mixing things up, making changes in an effort to be an affordable watering hole frequented by neighborhood residents. Gone are the high-priced entrées, replaced by a selection of simpler fare like meatloaf, fried chicken and house-ground burgers that tops out at $13.95. I thought this a particularly great idea, and, given that this new menu is reminiscent of the fare I was a fan of at another of Weiss’ ventures, the late Hot Locust, I was eager to check it out.
The first change you’ll notice upon entering the restaurant is that, in an attempt to soften the restaurant’s feel, the hard egg-shaped chairs have been replaced by padded black leather ones. Unfortunately, they seem out of place in a space that remains mostly modern. Acoustical tiles now hang from the ceiling to cut down on noise in the mostly hard-surfaced space, but the open kitchen’s hood adds a thunderous roar to the ambiance, so even without diners, Kitchen K remains loud.
As for the revitalized menu, many of the old favorites have hung on. The sweet potato fries – sprinkled with a zesty mixture of sugar, cinnamon, salt and cumin, served with a tangy banana-guava ketchup, and possibly the best in town – remain; baby back ribs coated with a sticky mango barbecue sauce are also still there, but they seemed reheated and were so insanely hot, we consumed them with silverware. Best of all, you’ll still find the thick, almost chili-style gumbo brimming with meaty chunks of chicken and andouille, plump bites of juicy tomato, and okra. A strong hit of Tabasco gives it some kick, and a mixture of onions and green pepper round out the incredible flavor.
With the addition of the handcrafted burgers, the main courses are heavy on the beef. It should have been an easy win, but the Smokehouse Bacon Burger I tried was impossibly dry, having been cooked three temperatures beyond the requested mid-rare. More disconcerting was its complete lack of seasoning or even taste – including a beef taste! – which is perplexing for a restaurant grinding its own. Another new item, the Cuban enchilada, had a decidedly un-Cuban taste; its hefty covering of tomatoes and cheese overwhelmed the allegedly Cuban-flavored brisket within.
The meatloaf, however, was another story. I consider myself a bit of a meatloaf aficionado, and Kitchen K’s is one of the best restaurant versions I’ve had. Thanks to the breadcrumbs used as the binder, it has a beautifully soft texture that errs neither on the firm nor mushy side. Besides the gumbo, it was the best-seasoned dish I tried; the scent of thyme permeated throughout the loaf, and the topping of goopy ketchup was intact even after a smothering of tasty (though unnecessary) caramelized onion gravy. The plate’s downside was the sides: The mashed red potatoes had a wonderfully creamy texture and all the right lumps but lacked salt and pepper, and the side of broccoli was overcooked to an army green.
Our server had endlessly touted the fried chicken on our first visit, so on the second trip we ordered away and found a passable version of buttermilk fried chicken. The coating was crunchy, the flesh was moist, but the “hint of spice” claimed on the menu tasted only of salt. Oddly, this time the mashed potatoes were a dry, mealy mash of Idahos that seemed microwaved.
Service, relatively dicey on both visits, is the real downfall at Kitchen K. Each time, we were slow to be greeted and stood waiting as workers looked us squarely in the eye and then passed us by. Overall though, I think Kitchen K could be on to something here; iron out some kinks and version 2.0 really could turn into a great value.
This article appears in Oct 1-31, 2008.