No one ever orders the side of mac and cheese with the intention of having it for their whole meal. Scratch that: No one ever admits to veering so far from the recommended daily intake of carbs and dairy. But as I pulled up a seat at Brasserie, the French-style eatery in the Central West End, last Monday, that’s exactly what I did. And while I’ll admit to harboring a smidge of guilt as I heard the words leave my mouth, after a few bites, I didn’t care who had keyed into my sinful ways. I was hooked – and sharing was completely off the table.
When the piping hot skillet gets pulled from the oven to be placed in front of you, it’s worth the risk of burning your tongue to get a bite of those soft, creamy noodles swimming in a pool of bubbling cheese. The pasta still has a slight crunch from those fiery broiler flames but is tender enough to soak up that luscious sauce. The sharp flavor of Gruyère dominates, but it’s balanced beautifully by a Mornay sauce that’s thick, rich and – you got it – cheesy.
Hoping to feel a little better about your over indulgence? Balance out your food pyramid – er, plate – with one of Brasserie’s seasonal salads. Like the Tomato and Green Bean – touting peppery fennel, onion and hard-boiled eggs – or the Mixed Lettuce, studded with hazelnuts, topped with fresh goat cheese and tossed in a sweetly acidic roasted shallot vinaigrette.
If you’re looking for something a little more “adult,” you could order one of the other vegetarian options on Brasserie’s menu. There’s the goat cheese tart and the herb gnocchi, and I’m sure they’re just great. But until the kitchen tries its hand at a vegetarian cassoulet, the mac and cheese will be my meal of choice. And, no, my no sharing rule has no exceptions.
This article appears in August 2012.