Among The Hill’s old-school Italian eateries, Lorenzo’s Trattoria is a breath of fresh air. Chef and owner Larry Fuse Jr. welcomes new ingredients into the kitchen, managing to stray from the red sauce standbys without shutting them out completely. This is a place where a contemporary gourmand can order happily alongside her elderly grandma. Fuse opened the restaurant in 1999 and continues to serve updated Northern Italian cuisine to a loyal following.
Lorenzo’s take on shrimp scampi illustrates Fuse’s knack for turning an old classic into something more current and fresh. Instead of the standard sautéed shrimp on a bed of pasta in buttery, winey sauce, the kitchen lightly breads the shrimp, adding a little crunch, and plates them atop a bed of white beans, roasted peppers and arugula, and adds a dressing of lemon aïoli. The shrimp were plump and moist, with nice charred grill marks. The beans and arugula were warmed together, nicely wilting the greens, and the lemon aïoli was creamy and acidic. This updated version felt lighter, brighter and offered more texture, color and interest.
The chicken spiedini is also a lighter version of the original, swapping spinach and pancetta for the standard seasoned breadcrumb stuffing. The chicken rolls are seared a dark caramel on the outside, yet aren’t dried out. The accompanying linguini is jazzed up with mushrooms, tomatoes and capers, the last adding a briny, tangy pop. All together, the dish sings and never feels heavy.
Unfortunately, not every dish at Lorenzo’s is as successful, like the house-made potato gnocchi with luganega sausage, arugula and cheese sauce. Perfect gnocchi are light and pillowy, but Lorenzo’s were very dense and pasty. The sauce didn’t taste of Gorgonzola or Fontina as advertized and was as thick as biscuit gravy. The sausage and arugula were drowning in the sauce. The whole dish lacked balance; it was all heavy, heavy, heavy.
Arancini, too, fell short. These breaded, fried rice balls are one of my favorite things to make and eat; Lorenzo’s version isn’t my favorite. The rice was mushy, the beef and vegetable filling needed salt, and the breading, while light and crisp, stuck in my teeth.
But another classic was a hands-down winner: a big bowl of spaghetti bolognese. Lorenzo’s sauce is meaty, sweet, tangy and aromatic, and the pasta was a true al dente. It was pure comfort – and I was pleased that the large portion allowed for leftovers.
Balsamic onions added a sweet and sour element to the sausage and roasted pepper pizza. The crust was crispy and airy and the crumbled sausage was bold against the sweet and smoky peppers. The house salad strays from your typical St. Louis Italian salad (iceberg, red onion, Provel, maybe some pimentos) with crunchy toasted pistachios, crispy and salty prosciutto, Asiago and balsamic vinaigrette. The varied textures and bright dressing make it a pleasant choice.
Desserts were memorable. Nocello, a hazelnut and walnut liqueur, added a hint of flavor to the most silky crème brûlée I’ve ever tasted. The sweet eggy mixture was sheeted with the requisite caramel crust. It was delicate yet rich and texturally superb. The ricotta cheesecake was also very good, with an airy filling, graham cracker crust and a tart raspberry sauce that perfectly cut through the richness.
Service at Lorenzo’s is efficient and friendly. The décor is typical of many Italian restaurants in the neighborhood, with the dining rooms painted in soft neutrals, and lots of sconces and prints on the wall. Tasty grissini (long, skinny breadsticks) with little ramekins of whipped Gorgonzola await guests at each table – the perfect updated nibble to pair with a nice traditional glass of Chianti from the Italian-heavy wine list.
BACK FOR SECONDS Don’t miss dishes: Shrimp scampi, chicken spiedini, spaghetti bolognese
Vibe: Family-friendly and festive
Entrée prices: $13.50 to $23.95
Where: 1933 Edwards St., St. Louis, 314.773.2223
When: Lunch: Tue. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner: Tue. to Sat. – 5 to 11 p.m., Sun. – 4:30 to 8:30 p.m.
This article appears in January 2011.
