Sesame seeds are used all over the world. They have a nutty, slightly sweet flavor and aroma. They are believed to be one of the first condiments and one of the first plants to be used for edible oil. Its origin is somewhat disputed — some experts contend that it originated in Africa and others claim it originated in India. Usage dates back to 3000 BC and the earliest recorded use of sesame comes from an Assyrian myth, which claims that the Gods drank sesame wine the night before they created the earth. Over 5,000 years ago the Chinese burned sesame oil not only as a light source, but also to make soot for their ink blots. African slaves brought sesame seeds also called benne seeds, to America where they became popular in Southern dishes. One of the most widely known phrases — “Open Sesame” — came from the words used by Ali Baba to open the treasure cave in the classic tale The Thousand and One Nights. By that time sesame was so well known to the Arabs that it was thought that they would quickly forget the phrase because it was so common. The phrase is thought to mean that the cave would pop open much like the seed pods which burst open when ripe.
Sesame seed cultivation spread early through West Asia to India, China and Japan and is now found in most of the tropical, subtropical, and southern temperate areas of the world. The sesame plant, or sesamum indicum in Latin, is an annual herb that grows anywhere from 2 to 4 feet. It has deeply veined ovate leaves and white or pink flowers. The flowers mature into pods containing the edible sesame seeds, which burst with a pop when the small seeds mature. In fact it is said that if you walk through a sesame field in late summer in Mexico after dark, you will hear the loud “popping” sound of the sesame plants exploding and spilling their seeds. The seeds are caught in a cloth under the plants and then gathered for cleaning and shipping. Sesame seeds are also harvested while still green, unripe and still contained in the pod to prevent the scattering that would occur if harvested later. Prime season for sesame seeds is between September and April when the new crops are harvested.
There are several varieties of sesame seeds including white, red and black. The black variety is the most flavorful and yields the best quality of oil. All seeds contain fifty- percent oil. The white seeds are extremely rich in calcium. One-half cup of sesame seeds contains over three times the calcium of a comparable measure of whole milk. The red variety is exceptionally rich in iron. The seeds are also rich in vitamins A, E and protein and high in zinc, copper, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium. Although sesame seeds contain no cholesterol, they still contain fifty-percent unsaturated fat so weight conscious persons should use them in moderation. Sesame seeds have emollient properties that soften skin and have a mild antioxidant effect. Sesame is also used as a base in cosmetics and soap.
In the United States over one-third of the crop is purchased by McDonalds for their famous sesame seed buns. It is the McDonalds purchases that set the tone for the market pricing each August. Most of the United States’ crop comes from Mexico. In Africa, sesame seeds and oil are used for perfumery as well as for frying vegetables and meat. The Japanese use the oil for salads and cooking fish. In China, the seeds are used for candy and sweets and in Greece they are made into cakes. In Sicily the seeds are eaten and scattered on breads. Koreans sprinkle the seeds over braised ribs, add them to salads, meatballs, noodle dishes and vegetables. Tahini is a paste of untoasted white seeds used extensively in Middle Eastern cooking. Halvah is a sweet candy also from the Middle East.
Because of their high oil content, the seeds can quickly become rancid. Purchase the seeds in small amounts and use them quickly. Unrefrigerated seeds should be stored in an airtight container for up to three months in a cool, dry place. Refrigerated seeds can be kept up to six months, and frozen up to a year. Sesame oil is very stable and will keep for years and can be used as a substitute for olive oil.
Toasting sesame seeds can bring out their nutty flavor. Spread the seeds on a cookie sheet and toast in a 350 degrees oven for 15-20 minutes, stirring often to prevent burning. Sesame seeds can be found in your local supermarket spice aisle. The more exotic sesame seeds can be found in ethnic markets.
This article appears in March 2024.