You may be tempted to eat dessert first at Cravings Restaurant and Bakery in Webster Groves. The lime-blueberry bombe would be a good place to start. It’s bright, luscious and texturally titillating: A dense and chewy white chocolate brownie is filled with airy and smooth white chocolate mousse, lime cream and blueberries. If this dessert were a book, it would have some busty maiden clinging to a beefcake on the cover.
The man behind such stunning creations is Tim Brennan, who’s been satiating cravings for sugary thrill-seekers for over 25 years. Since moving to his current Webster location in the mid-’90s, Brennan has been serving lunch on weekdays and dinner on weekends.
The dinner menu draws inspiration from here and there – Thai pot stickers, spanikopita and foccacia mingle in the appetizer section. Entrées include the usual protein roundup: chicken Provençal, pork tenderloin, filet mignon, veal scallopini, etc., with several specials offered each night.
Overall, the food is fine, but the dishes seemed to lack a certain thoughtfulness or soul, as though whoever was making the food or plating the dish wasn’t putting in his or her best effort. The fresh mozzarella on the foccacia appetizer, for example, could have been caramelized and bubbly, then sprinkled with a little salt. The lettuce in salads could have been dressed more carefully, so that each leaf was evenly and lightly coated. A barbecued shrimp special with polenta could have been presented better, centered and tidy. The sticky linguini with wild mushrooms needed more liquid; the pork tenderloin should have been juicy at the center.
There are some high points, though. Tender, fall-off-the-bone short ribs were dead-on, and the accompanying jus-port wine reduction was liquid perfection. The mashed potatoes they sat upon were seasoned properly and moist. Good stuff.
The mushroom tart appetizer featured a lightly golden tart shell that was buttery, salty and crumbly, and the mushrooms were juicy. The pot stickers were bold and savory with a pork and beef filling, as good as at your favorite Thai restaurant. Risotto with chicken and vegetables was deeply flavored with aromatic celery, carrots and onions. Each grain of rice was nicely firm yet tender. It was a comforting bowl of chicken and rice soup, in risotto form. Veal scallopini was nice and crispy along the edges and smothered in mushrooms and a Madeira reduction. The meat wasn’t too tough, and the breading wasn’t too soggy.
Now, back to those desserts. With more desserts on the menu than entrée options, it’s easy to see where the true passion lies. The point of dinner here is really the sweet finale – and here’s where the soul comes in. They’re creative and whimsical, simple and delicious. Favorite flavor combinations meld but surprise with varied textures. Crispy crusts and bits of nuts add crunch to ethereal mousses that make you melt, dense and creamy fillings widen eyes. Brennan really has a way with the whipped, the fluffy, the moist and the tender.
The hazelnut zuccotto is all that: a heavenly dish of layers of chocolate and hazelnut cake sandwiching white chocolate mousse and hazelnut cream. A special one night was angel food cake with pistachio cream and a whipped, chocolaty mousse.
The room is small and casual with booths along the window overlooking the shops along Big Bend. A floor-to-ceiling pipe is disguised as a palm tree, with big green leaves at the top. A display case of cakes is next to the counter, where drinks are poured from the full bar. The clientele seems to be the people in the neighborhood: big families with kids, a couple in to enjoy a glass of wine and some dessert – a relaxing and casual place that’s quiet and low-key.
Service is good, if a little overwhelmed and slow when more than a couple of tables are occupied. Brennan is there chatting with friends who are in to drink and dine, greeting each table, asking how things are. If he catches you during dessert, they’re pretty sweet.
BACK FOR SECONDS Don’t-miss dish: Lime-blueberry bombe, hazelnut zuccotto, short ribs and mushroom tart.
Vibe: Low-key, neighborhood atmosphere.
Entrée Prices: $14.95 to $23.95 (Desserts run from $3.50 to $6.75.)
Where: Cravings, 8149 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.961.3534
When: Lunch: Tue. to Sat. – 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Fri. and Sat. – 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Dessert and coffee: Tue. to Thu. – 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 10 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
This article appears in Jul 1-31, 2010.