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kamayan brunch in university city Credit: jonathan gayman

The Philippines, an archipelago of 7,000 islands, sits in the triangle of China, Japan and Indonesia. Once a stopover on trade routes between Arab and Asian countries, it spent three centuries under Spanish occupation and 50 years as a U.S. colony. With so many culinary influences along the way, Filipino food can seem like a crazy quilt of multiculturalism, and the Sunday Filipino brunch inside Mandarin House is no exception. The fact that the brunch is kamayan, the traditional Filipino way of eating with your hands, makes it a complete cultural experience.

Credit: jonathan gayman

There’s nothing subtle about Filipino food. It has enough crunch, salt, fat, sweet, spice and tang to satisfy the most adventurous eater, usually hitting all at once. A polyglot cuisine, Filipino fare mixes Indonesian ginger and coconut with Chinese noodles, rice, egg rolls and soy sauce; it makes use of Spanish flavors and cooking methods, as well as African and Middle Eastern dishes like satays and kebabs. Even American hamburgers and macaroni and potato salads make an appearance. This is high-fat, high-protein, high-starch fare, so bring an appetite. And don’t forget to say salamat, the Tagalog word for thank you.

Kamayan Brunch, 8008 Olive Blvd., University City, 636.299.0241, Facebook: Kamayan Brunch. Sun. – 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. $25, adults; $12.50, 12 and younger.

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Michael started eating at birth and hasn't stopped since. In between, he’s waited tables, tossed pizza dough and even wore a tuxedo and tastevin while working as a sommelier during grad school. He’s...