Good news: After a few building-related snags, Sando Shack is now operating at full throttle in the former Boardwalk Waffles space at the corner of Manchester Avenue and Sutton Boulevard in Maplewood, having moved from its first brick-and-mortar location in Tower Grove South earlier this year.
The Japanese-style katsu sandwich concept is owned by Amy Guo and husband Daniel Jensen, who returned to St. Louis from Seattle in 2020 to open Hello Poke at City Foundry STL. That plan hit some bumps, as well: The pandemic was in full swing and the opening at the Foundry was delayed. Unbowed, the pragmatic duo came up with another idea for the interim: They took to the road serving their brand of Japanese katsu sandos at pop-up spots about town, and eventually from the hatch of their very own food truck.
The sandwiches were well-received, and why on earth wouldn’t they be? What’s not to love about crispy, panko-breaded tonkatsu pork or crackly chicken karaage bound in soft brioche with things like pickled peppers and yuzu aioli? Or a crustless sandwich of egg salad turned sublimely Japanese with Kewpie mayo, wasabi and green onions? In addition, how much do we adore fries tossed in an Asian sweet curry blend or speckled with a feisty togarashi mix of seven spices? And what could be prettier, more all-around delightful, than a sando of strawberries and cream on Japanese milk bread? To boot, Guo and Jensen have recently expanded desert offerings to ice cream sourced from Sugarwitch which has worked its usual magic with customized flavors like matcha, red bean and black sesame. The ice cream serves as a filler for little fish-shaped waffles called taiyaki, or may be ordered by the scoop in cups.
There are also rice bowls on the menu: Chicken katsu, pork tonkatsu and mushroom.
Guo said she is excited about the new location in the thick of the bustling Maplewood strip, and believes Sando Shack fits right in. “We wanted to give it a chill colorful vibe. Nothing fancy. Just a fun family feel.”
Indeed, it’s a pretty cool cat: Picture an exposed industrial ceiling, bursts of neon here and there; and a huge, blisteringly red mural which – stamped with Sando’s brand logo – says this place means serious biz. There are seats for 30.
Though the season has ended this year, between April and October, the Sando Shack food truck will continue to be a presence at events about town such as Red Lantern City Night Market and Japanese Festival.