Editor’s note: Caitlin’s Green Eyed Grill has closed.
Located on the ground floor of the Dorchester high-rise on Skinker, Caitlin’s Green Eyed Grill inhabits the space that formerly housed the famous John’s Town Hall – a place frequented by an older crowd, many of whom were likely residents of the building. It appears that Caitlin’s has retained much of that clientele, making it a great informal hangout without the rowdiness of most bars and grills.
The menu is large and diverse, ranging from familiar favorites to more unusual dishes. Starters, for example, include the requisite toasted ravioli and chicken wings as well as more creative options like Beef Wellington Bites, juicy cuts of succulent beef wrapped in a soft puff pastry. The small rectangles are served hot with a side of veal and scallion demi-glace that’s more like a gravy – it has the potential to ruin the delightful flavor of the meaty bites if not used with discretion.
Shark Bites, bite-sized cubes of tender shark rolled in anchovy chili seasoning and served with a small cup of lemon butter sauce, were enjoyable, although the taste of the shark was difficult to discern, making the meat just a carrier for the spices. Poblano Chicken Puffs, small squares of puff pastry filled with pulled chicken and red bell pepper, were just OK, and the accompanying roasted pepper sauce tasted like a mix of hot sauce and ranch dressing.
A highly notable starter here, however, is the stuffed pepper, served open-faced with the two halves piled high with a wild rice mixture. The nutty rice was subtly spiced with chili oil, and the pepper was beautifully cooked to crisp-tender, its edges nicely blackened in spots.
The house-made soup is a Farmhouse Cheddar Ale made with Cheddar cheese, Amberbock, sliced carrots, celery and bits of chewy bacon. On one visit, it came out tepid, and failed to impress with an almost unpalatable saltiness. And as it cooled more, it became even thicker, eventually turning from a sippable soup into a dense dip.
The Forest Park Salad features fresh greens topped with feta, dried cranberries, sliced Granny Smith apples and cordial walnuts. The cranberry vinaigrette’s tart sweetness is satisfying.
There are several pasta options, including the Tuscan Angel Hair with pesto, savory sun-dried tomatoes, crushed garlic and feta. It’s a well-rounded dish, with al dente noodles and harmonious flavors.
The main course list offers an interesting array of items, one of the most affordable being something called a Schnitzel Wiener Art. It’s two thick slices of lightly breaded pork drizzled with the veal demi-glace. The meat is mouthwateringly good, especially when followed by a bite of the potato pancakes or the sizzling baked apples that come with it. The pancakes are dense rather than light and potato-y, and they need a sour cream or something rich on top to balance out the starch. The apples, however, are delightful: crispy on the edges and infused with cinnamon and sugar. The variance of textures and flavors really carries this dish.
The back side of the menu lists a half-dozen sandwiches. The meatloaf, served open-faced, features a slice of meatloaf on a piece of thin white sourdough bread with some mashed potatoes; both are covered in a vinegary, creamy white gravy. The meatloaf slice itself is insubstantial, lacking the texture and depth of a homemade slice of loaf. The potatoes are the highlight here, prepared in a chunky, homey style.
The pork tenderloin arrives on a large Kaiser roll that’s been crisped on the grill; it sandwiches breaded pork topped with creamy coleslaw. The meat was perfectly pink but perhaps not fit for a sandwich; it was hard to bite through. The sweetness of the coleslaw, which is quite good despite coming from a tub, was a nice contrast to the meat’s savory taste.
Caitlin’s is a cozy joint on a cold day, with a comfortable small town feel, decent fare and a cast of characters to watch.
FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS
Dine-In-Ability: A cozy, informal dining room and friendly staff will make you feel at home.
Feast or Famine: The menu is well-rounded and diverse, but heavy on the bar and grill food.
Try it You’ll Like it: The stuffed pepper and the Schnitzel Wiener Art
Where: Caitlin’s Green Eyed Grill, 665 S. Skinker Blvd., St. Louis, 314.862.5077
When: Tue. to Sat. – 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m., Sun. –
11 a.m. to midnight
This article appears in January 2011.