Aptly named, City Coffee House and Crêperie is a consistently busy, consistently excellent place for breakfast. Its large windows expose the daily Clayton bustle, while its small, closely situated tables only add to the French theme. And while the long lines move quickly, the gastronomists do not; finding a seat here on a weekend morning is close to impossible unless your hovering/poaching abilities are top-notch.
The menu, colorfully painted on chalkboards, is almost too extensive, which may be the reason for the long lines and indecisive diners. Why are they here, you ask? The breakfast, of course. That includes the crêpes, both sweet and savory. On the savory side of the crêpe offerings is the Fiesta, an excellent combination of thick-sliced chicken breast, tender slivers of red onion, green chiles, stringy mozzarella and Cheddar cheeses, and fresh spinach. The cheeses and spinach balance out the rather pungent flavors of the onion and chile, while the mild, slightly chunky chile sauce (ranch is also an option) served on top gives the dish the right amount of kick. The proportion of crêpe-to-filling is perfect: It’s plump in all the right places.
It’s hard to go wrong with an egg, meat and cheese version; diners can choose from a varied list of meats and cheeses. Opt for bacon and Gruyère on a buckwheat flour crêpe (that’s 95 cents extra and totally worth it), and you’ll get an extraordinary result: a thick layer of scrambled egg topped with savory, melty cheese mixed with small slices of tender bacon, all folded inside a thin, warm crêpe. Like all of the crêpes here, it’s enormous, but since they don’t keep well as leftovers, you’ve really no choice but to eat it all, right there, on the spot.
On the sweet side of things is a crêpe made with soft banana slices, sour cream and crumbly brown sugar sprinkled both inside and on top of the folded pancake. It tastes exactly as it sounds but is almost too sweet and isn’t too interesting. More traditional and more successful are the Nutella crêpes, listed with fruit and nut ingredients that allow you to build your own. We tried the strawberry and coconut, whose acidity and modest crunchiness, respectively, worked well with the generous slathering of smooth chocolate hazelnut spread. Because all the combinations go well with chocolate – bananas with pecans, strawberries with raspberries, etc. – you really can’t go wrong here.
But this crêperie offers more than just stuffed pancakes. The quiche, served thoroughly warm with a side of fruit, is a reliable option. The du jour offering is usually simple – one meat or one vegetable – but the flavor is complex. We suggest the artichoke quiche, which starts with a thin, doughy layer on the bottom, a thick and filling peppery cheese on top of that, and then a layer of baked egg with large chunks of juicy, savory artichoke heart baked in on top, still juicy and flavorful. The taste is slightly reminiscent of macaroni and cheese … but with artichokes.
And let’s not forget the pastries, including house-baked scones that, like the quiche, change frequently. One morning’s cinnamon-raisin scone was crunchy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, with shaved orange zest baked in. Well-balanced and not too sweet, it was perfect with a cup of joe.
There are also Belgian waffles made to order. Crispy around the edges and chewy in the middle, the plate-sized treat is topped with decadent whipped cream and, again, your choice of fruit. But one of the best dishes here is the parfaît. The bowl comes with a serving of smooth vanilla yogurt, piled high with blueberries, then strawberries, then a chewy, house-made granola baked with cinnamon and laced with pecans, cashew slivers, coconut and oats. It’s perfectly sweet and suitably filling.
Things run smoothly and efficiently at City Coffee House and Crêperie, with a genuinely pleasant staff and prompt service. The clientele is friendly and the vibe is chill, so bring some change for the parking meter and enjoy the crêpe outta this place.
FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS
Dine-In-Ability: Outside and indoor seating, but a certain persistence and patience are required for both, especially on weekends.
Feast or Famine: There’s something here for absolutely anyone. Really.
Try It, You’ll Like it: The Fiesta crêpe and a parfaît.
Where: City Coffee House and Crêperie, 36 N. Brentwood Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.2489
When: Mon. to Fri. – 6:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sat. and Sun. – 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.
This article appears in March 2024.