Editor’s note: Mr. B’s has closed.
Part neighborhood bar, part Italian restaurant on The Hill, Mr. B’s is a joint where all types are welcome and will feel as such.
In the dining room, located past the bar and around the corner, the lights dim with the kicking-on of some large appliance in the kitchen, and soft rock plays over the speakers. It’s a rather sleepy room, with quirky wall decor, fitted neutral-colored vinyl tablecloths and flickering candles. The service is friendly and informal, but the wait staff’s black dress code and the complimentary bread and olive oil on each table are evidence that Mr. B’s is striving to be something classier.
The menu begins with a smattering of traditional St. Louis appetizers, most all of them fried – zucchini sticks, toasted ravs, chicken wings. The calamari, served with a side of house-made marinara and lemon wedges, sports a nice, salty batter, and the large chunks of fried artichoke hearts, also served with marinara, were succulent, peppery and satisfyingly crispy. Spicy Cheese Balls, denoted on the menu as a house favorite, take the place of mozzarella sticks here, the jalapeño-Jack adding a slightly spicy kick to the melty app.
The salad section features several selections. The house salad is simple, with mixed greens, onion, shaved Provel and a slice of tomato, but it’s the dressing that really makes it worth having: a creamy Italian that’s tangy, peppery and house-made. The entrée-sized Cookie’s Salad is a slight step up, with small strips of crispy chicken, savory bacon bits, grated Cheddar, and a mix of iceberg and spring greens. Go for the house dressing with this one, too – it’s exceptionally good with the bacon.
In the sandwich category is the sirloin steak, also a house favorite. When ordered medium, it was delivered medium – something that doesn’t happen when dining out as often as it should. Served on French bread, the steak was tender, juicy and well-seasoned. The accompanying fries are thick-cut and well-spiced with seasoning salt. The Italian Sausage sandwich, served on buttery bread, is also worth trying; there’s a great spice and fennel flavor to the meat.
Entrées include beef spiedini and a tenderloin, but, priced in the mid- to upper teens, they’ll quickly move your bill out of the cheap eats category. Skip the appetizer if a larger plate is what you’re after, as these come with a salad and a baked potato or a side of pasta. The Chicken Parmesan is unremarkable; the crispy fried chicken, smothered by tomato sauce and a layer of cheese, is tender, crispy and warm, but the flavors of the final product are disappointingly bland.
The Four Cheese Pasta, which sounds vegetarian, arrives with prosciutto and mushrooms. The spaghetti wasn’t al dente, and the rich sauce combined with the too-soft noodles creates a dish that’s too thick and heavy.
A pizza is most likely the best deal here, with a plethora of toppings available to create your own combinations. One of the specialty pies is a thin-crust spinach and portabella number that’s topped with long strips of succulent mushroom, entire spinach leaves and Provel cheese. While the pizza’s flavors fused nicely, the Provel makes it rather rich, and it can grow overwhelming if you try to tackle it alone.
A note on Mr. B’s happy hour, when domestic beers are offered for $2: Here, “domestic” is not synonymous with “made in America,” but rather “Anheuser-Busch.” So that delicious Schlafly you’ve been craving all day? Sorry folks, full price.
If you happen to pop in on a Wednesday night, a trio of musicians will meet you at the door. So while not much on the menu is outstanding, Mr. B’s mix of comfort fare and neighborhood friendliness deems this joint worthy of a visit.
FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS
Dine-In-Ability: A two-room joint where the bar and dining room aren’t one in the same.
Feast or Famine: Vegetarians and health-conscious diners, beware.
Try it, You’ll Like it: Fried artichoke hearts and a house salad
Where: Mr. B’s Bar & Restaurant, 5800 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.5912
When: Mon. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri. – 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sat. – 3 to 11 p.m., Sun. – 1 to 9 p.m.
This article appears in Nov 1-30, 2010.