Editor’s note: Papa Fabarre’s has closed.
Papa Fabarre’s isn’t healthy. And it isn’t especially excellent, either. But the draw here isn’t the food: It’s the kitsch.
Tucked away amid the men’s Polo shirts and Tommy jeans on the second floor of the downtown Macy’s, Papa Fabarre’s is a step back in time. Among the vintage photographs of local breweries and signed headshots of glamorous celebrities are images, circa 1900, of the restaurant’s namesake, Giuseppe Fabarre, a man whose existence is somewhat dubious, seeing as it has long been known among the staff that he had nothing to do with the restaurant. Curious for sure, but this history (or apparent lack of one) certainly adds to the place’s mystique and, undoubtedly, its charm.
Under large barrels marked with the names of the booze they hold (not really) is a row of comfortable booths denoted with a sign reminiscent of the Monty Python finger stating that these are “Tables for Ladies.” The rule is overtly ignored, and people of all kinds inhabit them. A bar purchased from an old Gaslight Square establishment runs along the middle wall, and fans that run on a single pulley spot the ceiling. It’s cozy and old and wonderful.
Before the hostess seats you, she will ask you what you’d like to drink. It’s a bit abrupt, but there’s no messing around here. Once you’re seated, you can start with an appetizer or splurge for the combo platter and sample all three: toasted ravioli, loaded potato skins and chicken tenderloins. All are fine, but the real feature here is the accompanying flight of sauces deserving of their own plate. Honey-mustard, sour cream, barbecue ranch, marinara and, the Papa’s specialty, The 6th Floor Ranch, made in-house on the sixth floor of Macy’s. The last doesn’t go overboard on the creaminess or the herbiness; it’s delicious enough to use on just about anything, including one of the many salads – each of which will come garnished with a hardboiled egg, whether you get the Garden Crisper, the grilled chicken salad or the chopped chef salad. The Petite Side Salad, served solo or with a bowl of soup, is merely chopped iceberg hidden beneath a layer of shredded Cheddar cheese, croutons, a couple cherry tomatoes and, of course, egg. It’s nice if you like a little green to go with your dairy.
The most popular item on the menu, Our Famous French Onion Soup, is served with the requisite melted baby Swiss cheese topper and drowned crouton, the latter seemingly absent the day we ordered. The onions are sliced wide but thin, and the soup itself tastes and looks more like a gravy than a broth. It’s thick, rich, not too salty and filling.
Moving on to heartier fare, namely those listed under the Bountiful Burgers section of the menu, is The Famous John White: a half-pound burger on a sesame bun topped with “zesty” cheese sauce and fried onions. What’s off-putting is that you’re never asked how you want it cooked; it comes out the same every time: medium-well. The bun is thin and falls apart despite its being toasted, and it’s obvious the cheese sauce is from a can.
Among the Sandwich Sensations offerings is a new item, the Twisted Chicken, made up of a piece of fried chicken breast, Provolone cheese and bacon on a pretzel roll. By itself it’s a bit dry (the listed lettuce and tomato failed to make it onto our sandwich), but add some of that barbecue ranch sauce left over from the combo platter, and you’ve got something absolutely delicious. The bacon and the chicken are crispy and savory, and the roll adds a nice density to the already appetizing textures.
The Reuben Grill, on the other hand, is nothing to write home about. This one’s got the rye bread, but it’s sliced too thin and the pieces are too small; it’s got the kraut, but it’s almost undetectable; it’s got the Swiss and the Thousand Island, but they overpower the thinly sliced, meager helping of corned beef.
The Melt, served with your choice of chicken or tuna salad, is also unspectacular. We opted for the tuna, which is shredded small, heavy on the mayo and lacking in the crunchy celery department. There isn’t too much texture, save for the nicely grilled sourdough bread. And, as with all of these sandwich sensations, coleslaw is served on the side, with your choice of chips or fries, the latter being very good, with the right ratio of crisp to fluff.
Papa Fabarre’s is an institution, a place where downtown workers, shoppers and revelers have been eating for some 45 years. It’s quick, inexpensive and appropriately quirky. Service is efficient (servers love to refill your drink as many times as possible) and routine, and the décor is beyond impressive. So, just this once, don’t worry about calories and enjoy the spectacle that is Papa Fabarre’s.
FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS
Dine-In-Ability: Plenty of seating, but the room can get mighty busy during the lunch rush.
Feast or Famine: Not for the health-conscious.
Try It, You’ll Like It: Famous French Onion Soup and the Twisted Chicken Sandwich
Where: Papa Fabarre’s in Downtown Macy’s, 2nd Floor, 601 Olive St., 314.425.3634
When: Mon. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
This article appears in March 2024.