When most of us hear or see the word savory, it is often used as an adjective to describe the wonderful, mouth-watering flavor of a particular food or dish. It makes us think of good things, things bursting with flavor. However, many fail to realize that savory is also a very aromatic herb with a flavor similar to mint and thyme.
Savory (Satureia) is a member of the mint family. Its name is derived from the word satyr, the half-man, half-goat creature in mythology who owned the savories and had an insatiable sexual appetite. This is probably why the herb has a reputation for being an aphrodisiac. The Romans, who used savory for cooking and as a seasoning long before they used pepper, introduced it to England during Caesar’s reign. In the first century BC, Virgil grew savory beside his beehives. He thought it made the honey taste better. It was the colonists who brought savory to America.
Savory comes from the Mediterranean region and is primarily known for its two main types: Summer savory, which is an annual, and Winter savory, a perennial. Summer savory is milder in flavor than winter savory. Summer savory requires light, rich soil and full sun to grow. It reaches a height of one and one-half feet and produces tiny white or rose flowers in late summer. The leaves are larger and more rounded than those of the winter savory and are dotted with oil glands. Winter savory also requires good light, rich soil, full sun and good drainage. It is an evergreen that grows to about one foot in height and has glossy, bright green leaves with pinkish flowers. For best results, plant savory in mid June when the threat of frost has passed. It should be ready to harvest in early August. Fresh leaves can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator or frozen in ice-cube trays. For drying, cut 6-8 inches of the top growth and hang upside down in bunches. Leaves may also be spread out on a screen to dry. Store dried leaves in an airtight container. Summer savory is believed to be the better of the two types when dried.
Savory was first used by the Greeks and Romans to flavor game and stuffing. The Romans used vinegar flavored with savory and other aromatic herbs, in the same way we use mint sauce. Because of its strong flavor, savory can be used as a substitute for salt by those on a low-sodium diet. Because it goes especially well with beans, savory is known in Germany as Bohnenkraut or “bean’s herb”. Add summer savory to tender green beans and winter savory to dried beans and lentils. It is also suggested that any stuffing or dressing will be greatly enhanced by the addition of dried summer savory. Savory also tastes good with cooked vegetable salads, stews and soups, broiled game, veal, pork and chicken, tomato-based sauces, and especially trout.
In addition to its use in cooking, savory also has some medicinal properties. It is reputed to be and aid in digestion as well as a powerful antiseptic. Because of its pungent oils, it is commonly used in toothpaste and soap. Most herbalists agree that savory rubbed on a wasp or bee sting will give instant relief.
Summer savory can be found in your local supermarket, in dried form, in the spice aisle. It can also be found fresh, along with other herbs in the produce aisle of some supermarkets. Winter savory is harder to find and may require some serious searching. Whichever variety you choose, be sure to give savory a try. Chances are, it will find a permanent place in your kitchen.
This article appears in March 2024.