For me, the draw of outdoor summer markets is the food prepared right in front of you. Be it pork rinds or doughnuts, crêpes or kabobs, there’s something to be said for food served on the spot from behind a table, through a window, or, in the case of the Kirkwood Farmers’ Market, out of a shack.
Babalu’s Snack Shack offers breakfast, sandwiches, coffee and more from its quaint little corner at the market, but keep in mind this is not your typical cabin fare … especially for somewhere like Kirkwood. Babalu’s food could be considered Caribbean. Or Argentine. Or maybe even Nicaraguan.
The main draw seems to be the plate option, which is your choice of Cuban pulled pork, barbecued beef or glazed ham; a side; and flatbread. The latter is the true treat here; although it’s simply a piece of pita topped with an interesting combination of seasonings – on my visit sea salt, rosemary and Parmesan cheese – it’s grilled to perfection, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. The pork is unexpectedly sweet and very juicy, and the glazed ham (new this year) is drenched in a thick, rich, mouthwatering mustard-like sauce. You can eat the meat wrapped up in the bread or eat them separately, but either way, you won’t be disappointed.
Something called Sally’s Big Salad gets its own section at the bottom of the menu; it is, in fact, quite big. It’s made of chopped iceberg and romaine tossed with black beans, flavorful sautéed mushrooms and shredded Cheddar cheese, then topped with a large portion of hot-off-the-grill pulled pork, the shack’s specialty. (Sally is a real person, apparently: During my visit, the cook yelled out to someone at a table nearby, “Hey Sally! We sold one of your salads!”) While it was wholesome, very tasty and not lacking anything specific, it was bit thrown together and didn’t really take into account the careful line one must draw when mixing hot meat with cold lettuce.
The portabella sandwich, listed as having garlic goat cheese and chimichurri on top, arrived as described, but was also smothered with fresh spinach leaves and pickled onions, adding an unanticipated sweet twist to the succulent grilled mushroom. Many mushroom sandwiches are ruined by bread that gets soggy from the portabella’s juice, but this one was served on a grilled hoagie roll, giving it the right amount of crunch for a satisfying dish.
The Calypso Coleslaw, offered as a side, could very well take the place of a side of mixed veggies. It’s not only hearty and fresh (composed of crunchy cabbages, bell peppers, cucumbers and other veggies), but it has a spicy Asian flavor. Also on the list of sides is another house-made vegetarian option: the Cha Cha pickles. Different than your typical dill variety, these recently brined, thinly sliced cukes have a similar piquant vinegar base as the coleslaw, but their clean, fresh taste is more straightforward. On the other end of the side spectrum there’s the black beans, also listed as vegetarian, which have a thick, chili-type consistency and are packed with tomatoes, onions and plenty of cumin.
The gordita, on the other hand, was disappointing. Offered with chicken, pork, beef or mushrooms, I ordered mine with the chicken, whose blackened flavor was delicious, but the meat was undercooked. The dish is most likely the only bland thing on the menu: shredded iceberg lettuce, shredded Cheddar and the meat on top of a pita, wrapped in aluminum foil.
And while barbecue sauce isn’t needed to accompany most of this well-seasoned food, using a dab is highly recommended, as it’s made in-shack and covers all the bases with a sweet, a spicy and a tangy variety. Tip: The sweet sauce is capable of accompanying nearly everything on the menu.
Caribbean, Argentine, Nicaraguan – however you categorize the fare, Babalu’s unique menu and convenient corner spot are perfect for a cheap weekend meal.
FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS Dine-In-Ability: Depending on the weather, sitting at one of the many picnic tables makes for an enjoyable lunch. And, yes, there are bathrooms on-site.
Try It, You’ll Like It: Spice-glazed ham with a side of black beans and a cinnamon swirl for dessert.
Feast or Famine: Aside from the delicious mushroom sandwich and some sides, this shack is all meat, all the time.
Where: Babalu’s Snack Shack, Kirkwood Farmers’ Market, 150 E. Argonne Drive, Kirkwood, 314.706.0793
When: Through Sept. 26, weather permitting: Thu. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. (abbreviated menu), Fri. – 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sat. – 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sun. – 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
This article appears in May 1-31, 2009.