Time is generally the arch nemesis of any good beer. Hops degrade, fruity esters fade, air works its way into the bottle or can and robs the brew of its carbonation. Age also tends to flatten a beer’s commercial appeal. In a microbrew movement built on the novelty of flavorful alternatives as contrast to the staid, mass-produced American lagers, a craft label is only fresh until the next hop varietal or edible-glitter-strewn sour that comes off the line.
That’s why, after more than two decades of craft beer in St. Louis, we local tipplers must tip our stein lids to the beers that have endured. These are brews that have never wavered in quality, whose creators have never bored of making them – or at least making money off them. We take them for granted, bolt for the flashiest new tallboy or bomber, but we always come home to them in our time of need. And thank the ancient alewives that they’re always there, with the taste just as we remember, to welcome us.
Modern Brewery Citrapolis Credit: photo by George Mitchell4 Hands Brewing Co. City Wide American Pale Ale
The downtown brewery that tries to do a bit of everything has, of course, expanded the City Wide brand to include a Light Lager, an Irish Stout and even a non-alcoholic Hoppy Ale. But there’s no topping the original, a crisp, classic blend of Centennial, Citra and Simcoe hops. Hoppy, smooth and bursting with civic pride, it’s the beer I take out-of-towners as a gift from the Gateway City.
4handsbrewing.com Credit: photo by George MitchellSchlafly Beer Oatmeal Stout
We easily could have called out Schlafly’s iconic Pale Ale or the underrated stalwart Kolsch; but when it comes to craft, solid malty stouts are hard to find. In an age where the style is all about one-upping the booze, barrel-aging, and decadent dessert adjuncts, it’s nice to know that perfectly balanced British-style stout is still warm and roasty with just the right touch of sweetness.
schlafly.com Credit: photo by George MitchellModern Brewery Citrapolis
Citra hops were at the forefront of culture shift toward more tropical, fruitier IPAs that we now refer to as “hazy.” Few beers feature the dual-purpose strain better than the juicy, still slightly bitter, but overall, extremely smooth Citrapolis. This American IPA is crushable year-round.
modernbrewery.com Credit: photo by George MitchellUrban Chestnut Brewing Co. Zwickel
It was pretty ballsy for this upstart brewery to put out a lager in the town that Budweiser built. But to this day, this unfiltered Bavarian-style beauty stands to remind us that a cold lager can be refreshing and still have flavor. Credit: photo by George Mitchell
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