Even with temperature on the rise, many of the farmers’ markets stalls seem mired in winter. The few tender lettuces and spring onions are lovely, but we’re hungry for more substantial signs of spring.
Enter the asparagus. We spotted some last week at the Maplewood Farmers’ Market at the booth of Lori Murray of Murray’s Orchard in Calhoun County, Ill. Billed as “chemical-free,” Murray has produced some of the slimmest stalks we’ve ever seen. But don’t let their build fool you – these super models of the asparagus world still pack quite a punch of vibrant vegetal flavor.
Murray said she merely cuts the very end off the stalk, washes them well and eats them raw. They’re perfect for salads and are great vessels for a flavorful dip, especially one with hints of soy and sesame. If you do want to cook them, pay attention at the steamer, as they need just a few minutes to get tender and crisp. Let them go too long and you’ll have asparagus mush.
Murray may have some fatter stalks on hand this week and, if she does, be sure to grab them up right away as these are more suitable for grilling or roasting. Whisk together a quick teriyaki-garlic sauce and drizzle it atop grilled spears, or sauté some ham and top it with the roasted stalks and a poached egg. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice is the perfect finishing touch. Enjoy your spring while it lasts.
This article appears in May 1-31, 2011.