The zephyr squash resting in a basket at the Clayton Farmers’ Market looks almost artificial. It’s hard to believe that Mother Nature could come up with something so unusually patterned. Well, Mother Nature did have a little help. These yellow and green summer squashes are a hybrid, a cross between two existing varieties, and their beautiful patterns and interesting texture stand out in a field of almost uniformly green offerings this time of year.
Zephyr squash bears more than a passing resemblance to zucchini, the home gardener’s favorite overachiever, although the striped beauties have an ever slightly more bitter taste. Texturally, zephyrs are less watery and have fewer seeds, making them just a bit easier to work with than their plain green cousins. Choose firm squashes with smooth skins and keep them in the refrigerator for four to five days.
Zephyrs can be swapped into any zucchini or other summer squash recipe, although you may have to increase your liquid by just a touch in order to compensate for their relatively drier nature. Use a mandolin to thinly slice the squash into ribbons, then dress with a fine olive oil and sprigs of mint for a take on carpaccio. Cut into rounds, the squash can be battered and fried. And if you don’t mind heating up the oven, you can layer the rounds with cream and Gruyère, and bake for about an hour for a rich gratin.
Zephyr squash will be available intermittently from Biver Farms and other producers in the area.
This article appears in June 2011.