Harvest has been around for over a decade, but it remains as vigorous and current as any newbie on the scene. Although recent months have seen a transfer of ownership from founder and chef Stephen Gontram to long-time executive chef Nick Miller, the restaurant’s tradition of cooking with the seasons and using local products continues.
That seasonal approach means the menu changes frequently, which makes reviewing it a challenge. But dishes like the meltingly tender braised lamb shank demonstrate the high level of skill in the kitchen. The flavors of everything that went into the pot – shanks, wine, stock, herbs and aromatics – slowly concentrated down into a powerful lamb-y elixir. Served with garlicy mashed potatoes, roasted root vegetables and a flavorful reduction of the braising liquids, it was a beacon of comfort and warmth on a chilly night.
Miller’s got a knack for braising, it seems, demonstrated again in the excellent special of duo of pork ordered in lieu of the sold-out boar porcetta one evening. Braised pork cheek and sliced pork tenderloin, seared dark and caramelized on the exterior and roasted rosy pink at its center, sat atop butternut squash polenta, drizzled in another earthy reduction redolent of the myriad ingredients and flavor-building methods that went into its making. The cheek was soft and rich, the loin bursting with juices, and the butternut polenta was creamy, sweet and unexpected. Butternut squash is great on its own, as is polenta. But combine them, and you get more body and texture than a side of squash purée alone. The dish was a wonderful representation of fall.
There are two steak entrée options on the menu. The more affordable hanger steak was served with a strange steak sauce reminiscent of the clearish, red-orange gloop known as sweet and sour sauce at your neighborhood Chinese takeout place – and tasted like a super-thinned out ketchup laced with red bell peppers. It certainly didn’t do anything for the look of the dish, as my eyes kept wandering to the neon sauce and away from the otherwise beautifully cooked, tender steak and potatoes. I would recommend the kitchen stick with those exquisite reductions.
I was curious to see how clever Miller and chef de cuisine Brendan Noonan could be in enhancing the flavor and texture of the concise (typically two starters and three entrées) spa menu, which adds no butter, cream, or extra salt or fat to its dishes. I feared the bland, benign and blah, especially given the regular menu’s buttery, creamy goodness and my penchant for such ingredients.
But I was wowed by the tender trout fillet over jasmine rice with fennel and a yellow tomato salsa. Served in the dark green banana leaves it was steamed in, the heady aromas of the fennel and jasmine rice waft up from the plate when the bundle is opened. The use of pungent, raw garlic and chives punched up the flavor of the salsa. The fish was glistening from its steamy sauna treatment, hydrated and firm rather than dried out and flaky. The fish flavored the fennel, the fennel flavored the rice, the rice perfumed the fish – it was osmosis at its best. Knowing I’d spared myself the salt, fat and calories was icing on top.
The starter I tried off the spa menu, a smoked shrimp and avocado salad with frisée and agave lime vinaigrette, wasn’t quite as successful. The smoky flavor of the shrimp tricked my mind into thinking I was eating something more substantial than the sum of its parts, the dressing was vibrant, and the avocado, with its buttery texture and natural fat, was just as effective in triggering the right sensors. But the poached head-on prawn triggered all the wrong sensors, with its flimsy texture and grayish, undercooked appearance. Upon inspection the specimen was cooked through, but its looks rendered it unappetizing. And despite its successful elements, the salad needed something else to push it over the edge, something super crunchy or nutty, or a higher ratio of smoked shrimp to frisée.
Back on the fatty side of the menu, the charcuterie plate is a fine option. House-made pâtés, sausages and terrines rest on a board with grain mustard, pickles and crostini. I have a love-hate relationship with pig’s head, as the gelatinous and spongy texture sometimes overshadows the savory-sweet pork flavor. Using pig’s head in a rustic pâté, then, is the perfect way to level the texture-to-flavor playing field. The charcuterie was excellent – artistry at its best.
A starter of flatbread with spiced duck confit, mole and Mexican cheese looked like a frozen personal pan pizza, and maybe would have tasted like one if not for the juxtaposition of Latin flavors. The mole and duck confit had a nice smattering of savory and sweeter spices like cumin and cinnamon, but the crust was too thick, bready and dry; I would have preferred crispy, crackled edges and more room for the toppings to shine.
When your meal draws to a close, don’t skip the bread pudding in a pool of hot caramel, dolloped with whipped cream and Bourbon-currant sauce, moist and caramelized. The black walnut-chocolate tort was also good, if a little dry. A scoop of Bavarian cream, once melted, adds necessary moisture. The black walnut flavor was nicely subtle with the dark chocolate cake.
The earth-toned split-level dining room’s décor is outdated, but the room is softly lit and the ambiance is warm. Service was excellent on all visits – friendly, informed and professional. Taken together, it bodes well for Harvest to be at the forefront of local dining for another decade.
BACK FOR SECONDS DON’T-MISS DISHES: Charcuterie and anything braised
VIBE: An upscale yet casual feel.
ENTRÉE PRICES: $19 to $25
WHERE: 1059 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.645.3522
WHEN: Tue. to Thu. – 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 5:30 to 10 p.m., Sun. – 5 to 9 p.m.
This article appears in Dec 1-31, 2010.
