Milagro Modern Mexican opens today. There’s a lot to like about this upscale eatery in Webster Groves, the sister restaurant to owner and chef Adam Tilford’s Tortillaria in the Central West End. While the latter is a place you might scarf south-of-the-border street food, Milagro is one of the few places in town that offers authentic Mexican food in an upscale atmosphere.
Here are five reasons why you’ll want to check out Milagro:
1. An ¡olé!-deserving mole poblano. A sublime red sauce made from dried chiles, peanuts, almonds, raisins, Mexican chocolate and spices – this is one of the best moles we’ve tasted. Find it on the duck (yes, duck) enchiladas and in the roasted chicken that comes with a cilantro-rice pilaf and calabacitas.
2. Mexican truffles are tasty. Huitlacoche, otherwise known as a “Mexican truffle,” is a fungus that grows on corn. Corn smut is a common quesadilla filling, and you’ll love the meaty texture and earthy flavor it gives to Milagro’s quesadillas tradicionales made of corn masa. Plus, with morels in short supply this season, we need some interesting subs.
3. Tostaditas bundled in a banana leaf. Order the ceviche – Milagro’s is made with mahi mahi – and you’ll get a tidy little side of tostaditas wrapped in a thin banana leaf ribbon. We loved refined touches like these.
4. The ensalada Milagro. The house salad is made of mixed greens, diced tomato, grated Panela cheese and toasted pepitas tossed in a refreshing cilantro-lime vinaigrette that has just a touch of sweetness. Yeah, we can make a diet of this.
5. No red chile pepper light strands or Corona beer banners. Not inside. Not even on the patio. In readying the space in The Shoppes at Old Webster that was previously occupied by Natural Fact Foods, Tilford opted for a sophisticated décor – a soft Southwest color palette; tranquil, unobtrusive metal artwork; and simple stonework at the full bar – that invites you to stay awhile.
Milagro Modern Mexican is open daily from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. It’s located at 20 Allen Ave. at the rear of the building.
– Ligaya Figueras
This article appears in Apr 1-30, 2010.