When The Scoop spoke with John Griffiths in early November regarding his new position as executive chef at Truffles, we knew that changes were coming to the Ladue bistro. Today, Griffiths spoke in detail about the restaurant’s new “Italian tilt” and the renovations underway at 9202 Clayton Road.
While the restaurant will retain its name, the new menu, which debuted Tuesday, now has a modern Italian focus and is driven by fresh, local, seasonal ingredients, as indicated by the new tagline “rooted in the flavors of the season.” The menu will change daily. “We want to reinforce the fact that we are cooking from the seasons every day, which isn’t something new – that’s how you run a great restaurant – but what sets us apart is that we are moving in a modern Italian vernacular,” said Griffiths.
House-made items are a key element to the new vision at Truffles, seen in the likes of a salumi program, a bread program and cheese such as Burrata, an Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream. In addition, look for Truffles to be highly butcher-driven. “We are developing a comprehensive breed-specific beef program at the restaurant, using more alternative steaks and cuts of the beef, and alternating through different ranchers at all times, never working with commodity product,” added Griffiths. Alternative cuts, such as short ribs, belly and hanger steaks, explained the chef, will help offset and keep prices lower. Whereas previously many desserts were purchased, now the restaurant will be making the sweet finishes in-house; the new pastry menu is set to launch next week. Creating in the kitchen with Griffiths is sous chef Chris Tirone, who worked with Griffiths at now-shuttered An American Place and most recently as sous chef at Monarch.
While two popular menu items – the burger and Dover sole – remain from the previous menu, even those will be enhanced and made more approachable, thanks to the extra table-side service new renovations will allow. “We are working to open up the dining room a little bit more,” said Griffiths. Large-service tables will be added in the main dining room to emphasize the “communal part of dining, so people can see what’s going on and be part of it as a whole.”
Other changes include relocating the wine cellar into the dining room to make it visible to diners, putting in new furniture and fixtures, and “generally brightening the restaurant,” Griffiths said. Local firm SPACE Architecture + Design has been tasked with the redesign.
Guests will see these physical changes occur slowly, beginning in late February, since the restaurant will not close while it renovates. The restaurant did stop lunch service, however, the first of this year as construction will take place outside of the Tuesday to Saturday dinner service hours.
What type of diner is Truffles looking to attract with this new vision? “People who are excited about food and wine,” responded Griffiths. “We want people that want to come out and enjoy a relaxed atmosphere, one that’s fun and energetic and that doesn’t feel stuffy or pretentious in any way.”
Want to peek at the new menu? Go to www.todayattruffles.com.
This article appears in January 2011.