If Grassi’s West were a person, it would be the guitar tech who makes sure the lead guitarist’s instrument is accounted for and in tune or the speechwriter who makes the politician look smarter than he truly is – in a word, “dependable.”
To denizens of Frontenac, Ladue, Creve Coeur and the surrounding communities, Grassi’s West has been the go-to spot for a quick, tasty, traditional Italian meal – and a menu that has items for even the fussiest kid in the family – for more than 25 years. (Those who’ve never been marvel at Grassi’s “secret location” behind the former Coco’s restaurant at South Lindbergh and German boulevards.) Here are three reasons to check out this tasty spot, if you haven’t.
1. The cafeteria-style service means you (and your impatient kids) get your meal quickly. At lunchtime, the super-human speed of the service is something to behold. The dining room’s perfectly unpretentious décor, which seems to have been frozen in time, features area prep school memorabilia on the wall and is the definition of casual and a great place to bring the family. About half the seats are repurposed church pews.
2. Standouts on the menu include the chicken parmesan, the Mary Jo Special (house-made ravioli with meatballs) and the Terry Special (veal on cheese garlic bread). The sandwiches are savory and hearty with a satisfying texture. The meat sauce, or “gravy,” that’s used on many of the pasta dishes is a delicious house-made red sauce, while the pizza is a St. Louis-style, cheesy, thin delight. The expansive menu has so many choices, including pizza and spaghetti for the kiddos. Virtually every dish comes with a house salad, which is tossed before your eyes in a tangy house Italian that saturates the crunchy croutons and coats the sliced green olives in it just right.
3. Regulars know that one of the best intangibles of the Grassi’s experience is the wisecracking that goes on behind the counter from the likes of owner Glenn Pariani and longtime employee Doris. They’re just a fun and charming gang.
This article appears in February 2011.