This is most definitely a destination restaurant. For one thing, it’s sparely lovely inside, leaving a clear deck for the dazzling turns Vicia takes with even the humblest vegetable. For another, its herbs come from the edible garden designed by Custom Foodscaping just steps away from the restaurant, the produce from Midwestern fields and orchards, and meats are sourced from local farmers whenever possible. Aside from being a delicious experience all around, dining at Vicia feels like being at a magic show. You wonder what tricks chef and co-owner Michael Gallina and executive chef Jane Sacro-Chatham will perform next as you wait for the umpteenth little course of beautiful, seasonal food, each likely to surpass the one before. Nowhere is this artistry with vegetables and meat more evident than on the Berkshire pork dish.
4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9239, viciarestaurant.com
The Sauce 75 is a photomosaic of the best in St. Louis dining. This list is a celebration of the diverse skills, techniques and culinary traditions that meet across our region. In sum, it tells a story about where St. Louis has been, where it is now and where it’s going next. Many great and good St. Louis restaurants have not made the cut. (Seventy-five is a lot fewer than you think!) Restaurants are constantly growing and evolving and go through ups and downs. Newly opened restaurants can take time to find their feet: There are a few exciting new places we’re cheering for, but which we feel haven’t yet fully hit their stride.
This article appears in Sauce Magazine // January/February 2025.