Method of Preparation:
1. The Ragout. Cut off and discard the tops of the leeks at the point they turn from light to dark green. Split the bottom portion lengthwise in half, keeping the roots attached so that the layers will not fall apart. Rinse thoroughly. Cut the leeks into 3-inch lengths, discard the roots, and then slice each section into one-eighth-inch thick matchstick. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a large (4-quart) saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring often, until they are softened and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the wine and cook until most of the liquid evaporates. Add the apple cider and salt and gently boil uncovered until the leeks cook down further and the liquid evaporates down to below the level of the leeks in the pan, about 10 minutes. Peel, core, and cut the apple into one-fourth-inch cubes and stir it into the leek mixture along with the lovage. Stir in the vinegar, taste, and season with pepper, and additional salt if necessary. (The ragout can be made ahead up to this point. Let it sit on the back of the stove for up to 2 hours or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.)
2. Fish. Preheat the oven to 425 F. Trim any dark gray flesh from the skin side of the halibut fillets and check for and remove any stray bones. Cut the fillet into 4 equal pieces and sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper. Reheat the leek ragout on the stove until it simmers, and then pour it into an ungreased 12 x 9-inch shallow baking dish. Arrange the fish fillets on top of the hot ragout and press them down so that their sides are submerged in the mixture but their tops are not covered by it. Cut a piece of parchment paper slightly larger than the baking dish and smear it with the softened butter. Press it; butter side down, directly on the fish. Bake the fish until it is milky, firm, and just barely translucent at the inside center, 10 to 15 minutes. Its best to underbake the fish slightly because it will continue to cook once the dish is removed from the oven. Bring the dish to the table. Use a spatula to serve the fish fillets and then spoon some of the ragout and the sauce over each piece.
* 3 medium leeks
* 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
* Three-fourths cup dry white wine
* One and one-half cups unfiltered apple cider or apple juice
* Three-fourths teaspoon salt
* 1 large tart apple, such as Granny Smith, Jonagold, or Braeburn
* 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh lovage
* 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
* Freshly ground black pepper
* 1 and one-half to 2 pounds skinless halibut fillet or other medium-firm flaky fish fillet, such as salmon, sea bass, or snapper
* 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
This article appears in October 2024.