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Refrigerator pickles, like these dills, can always be processed in boiling water if you want to store them at room temperature. But there’s a trade-off: The added heat causes the pickles to soften and turn from vibrant to drab green.

• To fit the cucumbers in pint-size jars, cut them in half crosswise; then quarter each half lengthwise. (For full-size dill spears, simply quarter the trimmed cucumbers without cutting them in half first and use quart-size jars to allow adequate room.)

• Combine the cucumbers and onions in a 15-by-10-inch glass baking pan. Sprinkle them evenly with 5 teaspoons of salt. Cover the cukes with ice cubes and let them stand at room temperature for about 3 hours. Drain well.

• Preheat the oven to 225 degrees.

• Wash 9 1-pint jars, 9 lids and their rims in hot soapy water. Rinse well and drain. Keep the jars hot in the oven until you are ready to fill them.

• Divide the dill and garlic between the jars, then distribute the cucumber spears and onions.

• Combine the vinegar, water and remaining salt (3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon) in a nonreactive pot and bring to a boil. Divide the hot mixture among the jars, taking care to cover the contents completely.

• Slide a sterilized nonreactive spatula down the sides of each jar to release any trapped air bubbles that may harbor bacteria. Cover and seal the jars while the pickling liquid is still hot, then allow the jars to cool to room temperature.

• Because the jars did not undergo processing in boiling water, they must be stored in the refrigerator at all times. For best eating, allow the flavors to meld for about 3 weeks.

About 12 pickling cucumbers (5 to 6 oz. each), ends trimmed
3 cups pearl onions (about 3 6-oz. bags), blanched and skins removed
5 Tbsp. pickling or kosher salt, divided
About 2 trays ice cubes
18 sprigs fresh dill (each about 5 inches long)
18 whole cloves garlic, peeled
4½ cups white vinegar
4½ cups water

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