Place the salmon skin side up on a glass or plastic cutting board. Run the back of a chefs knife firmly over the skin; moisture will bead up as you do this. Wipe the knife with a paper towel and repeat until the skin no longer releases moisture.
Pat the skin dry with a paper towel. Turn the salmon over, checking above and below the midline for pin bones. Remove any bones with kitchen tweezers.
Cut the fillet in half down the midline, then cut each half in two equal pieces to make four fillets. Season the flesh with salt.
Cut the bacon crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook until crisp. Drain the bacon on a paper towel; leave the fat in the skillet.
Reduce the heat to medium, add the minced shallots and cook 2 to 3 minutes until just softened, then add the sprigs of thyme and the toasted walnuts and stir. Add the white wine gradually. Cook down to a thin glaze, about 5 to 8 minutes, then add the cooked bacon.
Meanwhile, heat a second large skillet, add the olive oil until it sizzles.
Stir the cream and butter into the wine mixture, then add 2 cups peas and cook just until the peas begin to soften. This could take from 3 to 8 minutes, depending on the starchiness of the peas. Remove from heat when the peas are just cooked. Do not cover.
Add the salmon fillets to the second skillet, skin side down, while the peas are cooking. Cook uncovered until the flesh turns color about halfway up the side of the fillets.
Remove from the heat, then turn the fillets flesh side down and allow to finish cooking off the heat, uncovered.
Turn the heat to medium under the peas, then add 1œ cups of the pea shoots. Dont stir them in. Cook until they just wilt.
Carefully remove 1/4 of the pea mix with a spatula to each of four warmed plates, keeping the sprouts on top. Add the salmon fillet, skin side down. Garnish with the reserved uncooked pea shoots and the lemon wedges.
*Italian parsley may be substituted for thyme.
**If fresh peas are unavailable, use a good quality frozen pea. Baby peas are usually sweetest in the frozen department.
Coarsely ground kosher or sea salt
2 slices thick-cut bacon
3 banana shallots, peeled and minced
4 sprigs fresh thyme*
3/4 cup coarsely chopped walnuts, toasted
½ cup dry white wine
2 to 3 Tbsp. good quality olive oil
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 cups shelled English peas**
2 cups pea shoots, divided
2 large lemons, quartered
This article appears in May 1-31, 2009.