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Another light take on green vegetables. The oyster sauce, available in Asian grocery stores and well-stocked groceries, gives a smoky undernote to the dish. Try to find fresh, young Napa cabbage for extra crispness.

• Cut the cabbage crosswise into Œ-inch strips, then slice them crosswise to make bite-sized pieces (You should have 4 loosely packed cups.). Place in a bowl of cold water to wash thoroughly, then lift out, drain and set aside.

• Pour the hot water into a small bowl, add the oyster sauce and stir well. Set aside.

• Place a medium or large wok or large deep skillet over high heat. Add the oil, then lower the heat to medium-high and stir in the turmeric. Add the chiles, shallot and ginger and stir-fry about 30 seconds, until the shallot starts to soften.

• Raise the heat to high, add the chopped cabbage and salt, and stir-fry, tossing and pressing the greens against the hot sides of the pan. When they have wilted and softened, about 2 to 3 minutes, add the oyster sauce mixture. Bring to a boil, turn and stir for another 15 seconds or so to distribute flavors and finish cooking the greens, then turn out into a wide shallow bowl.

• Serve hot or at room temperature.

About ¾ lb. Napa cabbage
½ cup hot water
1 scant Tbsp. oyster sauce
2 Tbsp. peanut oil
1/8 tsp. turmeric
2 dried red chiles
1 medium shallot, minced
1 tsp. ginger, minced
¼ tsp. salt, or to taste

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