• Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Set aside a 3-quart round or 11-by-7-by-2-inch rectangular baking dish.
• Fill a large (6- to 7-quart) stock pot with 3 quarts lightly salted water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Add the macaroni and cook, uncovered, until al dente, that is, tender, but not soft or squishy. Drain the macaroni and rinse it under a gentle stream of water. Set it aside to fully drain.
• Meanwhile, place the pancetta in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. When the pancetta has rendered a few tablespoons of fat, increase the heat to medium-high. Cook it until crisp, stirring regularly to prevent sticking. Remove the pancetta and discard all but 1 tablespoon of the fat.
• Add 1 tablespoon unsalted butter to the pan and place the pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the chopped onions. Cook, stirring regularly, until the onions are soft, about 10 minutes. Combine with the reserved pancetta. Wipe the pan clean.
• Make a béchamel: Place the remaining 5 tablespoons of butter in the pan and melt it over medium heat. Remove the pan from the heat and add the flour, whisking well. Return to the heat and cook, stirring regularly, until the roux is the color of straw, about 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually add the warm milk, whisking frequently to prevent scorching and any lumps from forming.
• After the mixture has boiled and thickened slightly, reduce the heat to low. Add all but Ÿ cup of the grated cheese. Cook until the cheese has melted, stirring as needed. Add the tomato paste, sun-dried tomatoes, sage and reserved pancetta and onions. Stir well. Season the mixture to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
• Turn the drained macaroni into a large bowl and gently stir in the tomato-cheese sauce, making sure that all of the pasta is evenly coated. Adjust the seasoning.
• Spoon the mixture into the baking dish. Sprinkle the top with the bread crumbs and reserved Ÿ cup grated cheese. Bake until the top is lightly browned and the cheese sauce is bubbling, about 30 to 35 minutes.
¼ lb. pancetta (Italian cured bacon), chopped into ½-inch pieces
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
¾ cup diced yellow onion
5 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
4 cups milk, warmed
1 lb. grated smoked Gouda or sharp Cheddar cheese, divided (I like to use a blend of the 2 cheeses.)
3 Tbsp. tomato paste
½ cup coarsely chopped, drained marinated (or oil-packed) sun-dried tomatoes
2 Tbsp. minced fresh sage (or to taste)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 to 3 Tbsp. plain bread crumbs
This article appears in Feb 1-28, 2007.