“It’s a party in your mouth, man,” Qui Tran remarked with a laugh. Tran, who runs Mai Lee Restaurant and co-owns it with family members, was characterizing the bánh mì (pronounced BUN-me), the so-called Saigon sub. “It’s a staple,” the 32-year-old added, “just as much as noodles and rice.” Reflecting the colonial French influence on […]