On this episode of The Sauce podcast, host Lauren sits down with Bethany Budde-Cohen — owner of SqWires Restaurant & Market — to celebrate 25 years of one of Lafayette Square’s most beloved dining destinations and the story behind its lasting success.
Bethany shares how she transformed a 130-year-old wire factory into a warm, character-filled restaurant, and the challenges that came with it — from construction setbacks and a major fire to navigating recessions and a global pandemic. Through it all, SqWires has remained rooted in its identity: elevated Midwestern comfort food, local sourcing, and a deep connection to the neighborhood.
They talk about what’s kept SqWires thriving for over two decades, including house-smoked staples, a strong relationship with local farmers, and a commitment to consistency while still evolving with the times. Bethany also dives into the return and reinvention of the market concept during COVID, and how it’s become a curated, community-focused space for fresh, local goods.
Beyond the food, the conversation highlights the importance of family in the business — including Bethany’s daughter stepping into a leadership role — and what it means to grow something that’s truly part of the fabric of St. Louis.
From historic spaces to homemade herbs, from resilience to reinvention — this episode is all about building something that lasts.
In this episode:
- The story behind SqWires Restaurant & Market
- Transforming a historic wire factory into a restaurant
- Overcoming a fire, delays, and economic challenges
- What defines “elevated Midwestern” cuisine
- House-smoked meats, brunch staples, and menu favorites
- Sourcing local ingredients and working with farmers
- The return and evolution of the SqWires market
- Adapting through COVID and changing customer needs
- Running a family business with the next generation
- Why Lafayette Square is such a special community
Watch on YouTube or listen on Spotify and all major platforms. New episodes drop every Tuesday.
Presented by Swade Dispensary, with 12 locations across Missouri. Learn more at swadecannabis.com. Our other podcast sponsors are 4 Hands Brewing Co. and LHM.
