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Lunch to late night, The U is in session
• by Bill Burge • Photo by Josh Monken
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Trying to find a locally owned, non-breakfast option in St. Louis after midnight can be a chore. As a result, it’s difficult to talk about the new Midtown deli, The U, without mentioning its operating hours. The U happily slings fresh-made sandwiches and salads from
11 a.m. to 3:30 a.m. every day but Sunday.
But The U is notable for other reasons, too. Named for its proximity to both SLU and Harris Stowe, The U is located in the same building that houses Pappy’s Smokehouse and Buffalo Brewing Co., a few blocks east of Grand on Olive. Inside, the spacious and mostly gray interior feels a bit sterile without a packed crowd of regulars. Slightly elevated booths line one wall and several tables are dotted about.
You’ll either groan or chuckle, but the menu continues the university theme with kitschy categories and course guide-style numbering. The College of Arts and Sandwiches contains the bulk of options, followed closely by The College of Lettuce Administration, in which the meat choices are Electives. Extra Curricular Activities rounds things out with items like sides and sodas.
Bread is the foundation for any sandwich, and The U offers two choices, both from Companion: Bistro Pugliese bread and a classic Rustina roll. The latter is like a cross between ciabatta and a large pain beaucaire. The bread has a sourdough-style chew and is brushed with garlic butter and toasted before assembly. It’s a solid base for the sandwiches, but the quantity can be a bit much.
Of the sandwiches, my favorite was the Grilled Veggie (VEG101). Had it been served open-faced with tomato sauce, it could have been the greatest pizza-bread ever. Stacked high (like everything at The U), onions, peppers and mushrooms were perfectly grilled, allowing their caramelized flavors to shine through without being turned into an overcooked mush. Briny artichoke hearts added a foil to the creamy pesto mayo, and iceberg lettuce and slices of tomato added a fresh, watery crunch to the otherwise soft texture of the sandwich. Provolone cheese was melted over it all.
Other hits are The U’s takes on a couple of classics – some will dismiss them as imposters, but doing so would overlook that they are tasty in their own right. The Hot Italian Beef (BEF301) contains layers of sliced beef with not just the traditional giardiniera but also green and banana peppers. Topped with Provolone and doused with a spicy au jus, it’s a delightfully soggy mess that will leave spicy food fans smiling. The “U” Ben (BEF501) is simply the standard Reuben on the wrong bread. Corned beef is buried beneath sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and a healthy dose of Thousand Island dressing that oozes as you take a bite.
I don’t think The U is looking to bill itself as a health-food spot, but those hoping to be at least a bit more health-minded can opt for classic salads like Cobb (LET501) and Caesar (LET201). The Spinach (LET301) salad – topped with bacon, red onion, chopped egg, mushrooms and blue cheese crumbles – is the best of the bunch. The egg and cheese mix with the vinaigrette for a slight creaminess that sends the salad over the top.
Really though, I’d recommend not watching your waistline at The U, because doing so would mean missing the sides. While fries are simply the standard frozen variety, a dusting of seasoned salt ensures they stand out from the rest. A loaded version buries them beneath a mess of chili, cheese, bacon and green onions that leaves you licking your fingers and scrambling for napkins. But it’s the onion strings that outdo both; they’re crunchy and sweet and similar to tobacco fried onions.
My only complaint is that some of the sauces and dressings are applied a bit too liberally. The BBQ Bacon Cheddar (BEF401), for instance, has such a smothering of barbecue sauce that the flavor of the chopped bacon and the beef simply couldn’t break through. Overall though, I thoroughly enjoyed The U. While the food is greasy, it also has a familiar, comforting quality – like eating a hot dog at a baseball game. Anyone tempted to see The U only as a late night/early morning fix should look closer; they’ll find a locally owned establishment serving good food.
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