Although it doesn’t embody the literal translation of brasserie as “brewery,” the beverage selection at Gerard Craft’s latest restaurant, Brasserie by Niche, certainly supports his choice of name. The beer list, with six interesting drafts and nearly 20 bottled beers, is obviously well-planned and ready to support the menu. Cocktails delight, too, with knowledgeable bartenders mixing up a number of specialty drinks from a well-stocked bar.
But when I think of French cuisine, I think about pairing it with wine. Appropriately, Brasserie’s wine list is nearly all French, and selections from each region of France offer the diner a solid range of prices and styles to enjoy alongside the restaurant’s dishes. By-the-glass options were in the friendly $6 to $9 range, including one of my old favorites, the Veuve du Vernay Brut from Bordeaux, not an area traditionally known for sparkling wines.
With its floral notes and great minerality, the beautifully balanced Helfrich Riesling was perfect for enjoying the brandade while sitting at the bar. When I sip the amazing nonoaky, dry complexities of Alsatian Rieslings, I always wonder why everyone seems to want Chardonnay. But for those who must have Chardonnay, the list offers a well-chosen nonoaky California Chardonnay from Mer Soleil, the white wine branch of the Caymus family of wineries; it seems made to pair with Brasserie’s menu. At $52, it was the priciest of the white wine offerings.
The 2007 vintage from the Rhône region of Southern France is one of the best in many years; Brasserie’s list offers a Côtes du Rhône from Domaine de la Solitude, a favorite producer of outstanding Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It was juicy and delicious and a superb value at $7. Also among the reds is a Petite Sirah from the Girard Winery in Napa Valley, one of the most interesting reds made in Napa’s Cabernet Sauvignon world. With its massive, full body and deep darkness, it is a great value at $45.
As I always do, I searched the list for local wines. Admittedly, I was not expecting any Missouri wines to appear on the list, given the focus on French cuisine, but I was incredibly surprised to find two offerings from the Bethlehem Valley Vineyards: a 2007 Chardonel at $24 and a 2005 Norton at $32. It is especially encouraging to see Missouri’s wines on the same page as the beautiful wines of France. À votre santé! To read Michael Renner’s take on the cuisine at Brasserie by Niche, visit Gourmet Guru in the reviews section.
This article appears in Feb 1-28, 2010.
