There’s a lot more to Greek wine than retsina, the country’s traditional pine resin-flavored variety. Increasingly popular in U.S. markets, mainland-produced reds make great alternatives to pinot noir and Rhone blends. Many whites are also perfect for dinner parties, complementing a wide range of flavors and providing a conversation starter, or at least a tongue twister.
Think regionally while pairing: Salads and seafood go well with assyrtiko, the island of Santorini’s structured, acidic, food-friendly white wine. Tzatziki tastes even better when paired with the white malagouzia. Sip a red xinomavro with a bite of black olive tapenade. Fruit-forward agiorgitiko is a red light-bodied enough to pair with seafood dishes. Determined to drink rosé year-round? Greece has beautiful rosés that range from light Provençal styles made with syrah to the more fruit-forward, fuller-bodied agiorgitiko rosés.
Go Greek with these bottles, available around town:
2014 Estate Argyros Assyrtiko
Farmers train assyrtiko vines to grow in a basket shape to shield the grapes from high heat and strong wind. The ocean spray that helps irrigate the vines adds a touch of salinity to the finished white, which is acidic and citrusy.
$26. 33 Wine Shop & Bar, 1913 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.231.9463
2013 Thymiopoulos Young Vines Xinomavro
This red wine starts off edgy and herbal and opens up to a beautiful nose of amber and notes of black olive and fig. It tastes like spiced red fruit and has great tannin structure.
$16. The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282
2013 Gai’a Agiorgitiko
This beautiful, bright red, fruit-driven wine has plum spice that is stunning alongside roasted meat and game dishes.
$26. Starrs, 1135 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.781.2345
2014 Gai’a 14-18H Rosé Agiorgitiko
Full of ripe strawberry notes and hints of melon with a big body and lasting finish, this rosé will definitely stand up through the cold winter.
$18. Starrs, 1135 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.781.2345
2012 Domaine Douloufakis Dafnios Liatiko
Coming from the island of Crete, this wine is reminiscent of red Rhone wines – think of a lighter version of Chateâuneuf-du-Pape. Potpourri spices and raisinated grapes provide a lovely richness.
$15. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.2050
2010 Samos Nectar Muscat
Swap out dessert for this nectar-like dessert wine, caramel in sweetness without a syrupy finish.
$26. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.2050
This article appears in January 2016.