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2014 calera vin gris of pinot noir central coast Credit: elizabeth jochum

I am a longtime fan of wines by Josh Jensen’s Calera Wine Company, yet I only recently had my first taste of one of its pink wines. The 2014 Calera Vin Gris of Pinot Noir Central Coast sports a stunning neon pink color, but it carries the weight and length of a red wine. Most rosé, pink and vin gris wines (they have three alter egos) are easy, breezy, fun and fruity. This $20 bottle, however, has a very high IQ. It’s a seriously complex, crisp dry wine that tastes like pinot noir and can carry a conversation with dishes equally as sophisticated and full-flavored.

This article appears in May 2015.

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Glenn is wine director at Annie Gunn’s and The Smokehouse Market. He has been a member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board for 30 years, taught at St. Louis Community College for 15 years and is a certified...