Matteo Furlani of Cantina Furlani produces crisp, fresh wines using only stainless steel to ferment, which accentuates the snappy brightness of their grapes. The Northern Italian winery’s Altopiano Rosso encapsulates everything I love about low-intervention winemaking: It’s low alcohol, fruit-driven and undeniably craveable. This 100% pinot nero (pinot noir) briefly ferments with the grape skins, giving it a beautiful hue and light tannin. Look for notes of crushed raspberry, tart cherry and currant.
Sean Netzer is co-owner and wine buyer at Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery.
This article appears in November 2021.