Aug 1-31, 2008

Aug 1-31, 2008

He Said | She Said: Tangy Reubens

Russ: It’s Reuben! Strange sandwich from another planet that came to Earth with powers and abilities far beyond those of mortal sandwiches! Kathy: Oh, come on; you’re being sillier than usual this time. R: It’s true! The origin of the Reuben is shrouded in mystery, claimed by short-order cooks and barmen from New York City…

Peaches and Cheese

For the chutney: • Place all of the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. • Simmer for an hour, or until thick and jammy. • Taste and check the seasonings. If the fruit is too tart, add more sugar. For the cheese: • Using a thin fillet knife, cut off the bloomy…

Recipe: Duff’s Restaurant’s Creole Eggs Benedict

Is there a better way to start a lazy summer Sunday than with brunch at Duff’s? Or, more specifically, with Duff’s Creole Eggs Benedict? When bartender Matt Voss created this spin on the brunch staple by adding a Big Easy-esque boost to classic Choron sauce – “years ago now,” he said – his brother and…

Review: Sugar Lounge in St. Louis

Visiting trendy urban clubs usually rates about as high on my to-do list as scheduling intense dental surgery or attending an ex-girlfriend’s wedding. Maybe it’s that I can’t stand techno reverberating through my very soul as I wait in an obscene line for the bathroom, or maybe it’s that my wardrobe is completely devoid of…

How to Prepare Crowder Peas This Month

Come August, crowder peas are usually as plentiful as warts on toads, but you won’t find them languishing in the produce section of most local grocery stores. There’s just not much demand. Few folks have eaten, let alone cooked, fresh crowder peas. Sometimes called Southern, field or cowpeas, they are not peas at all, but…

Review: Nubia Café in St. Louis

Given the intermediate size of St. Louis, we have a surprising number of African and Caribbean restaurants: At last count, there were five African restaurants (heavy on Ethiopian) and a smattering that have Caribbean cuisine. The Hon. Henry E. Iwenofu (he gets the title by serving as a councilman in North County) described his Nubia…

Winslow’s (almost) homer

Ah, summertime, and with it comes the great American family vacation. Nothing says “rest and relaxation” like loading the kids into the ol’ truckster for a nine-hour drive. Oooh, yeah. But it’s not all bad. Road trips bring their own vacation traditions, things you seldom do the rest of the year. One of ours, a…

Lunch to late night, The U is in session

Trying to find a locally owned, non-breakfast option in St. Louis after midnight can be a chore. As a result, it’s difficult to talk about the new Midtown deli, The U, without mentioning its operating hours. The U happily slings fresh-made sandwiches and salads from 11 a.m. to 3:30 a.m. every day but Sunday. But…

Bill Cardwell’s pioneer spirit

Early last month, Bill Cardwell stood in the still-unfinished space of his new project, BC’s Kitchen, and took obvious enjoyment in detailing the restaurant’s focus on serving the Lake St. Louis community. “It’s like Lewis and Clark. There’s nobody out here. I mean, there’s homes here, but no business structure. But a business group like…

Stone fruits go savory

If I had to choose one taste of summer, it’d have to be stone fruits: peaches, plums, nectarines and apricots. Right now those fruits are at their peak of flavor – a fact that’s particularly welcome this year, after last year’s disastrous freeze that destroyed most of the fruit tree crops. The succulent flavor of…

Fast times at Slow Food Nation

The Slow Food movement, which began in Italy in 1989 as a countermeasure to the growing emphasis on fast food, encourages more attention to traditional products that are local, distinctive and often family owned – and that includes wine. So I was excited to learn that Slow Food USA planned to include a wine bar…


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