The Benevolent King, the latest restaurant in chef-restaurateur Ben Poremba’s stable of eateries, is scheduled to open in early April at 7268 Manchester Road in Maplewood. The space was previously home to Water Street, which shuttered earlier this year.
Poremba said the restaurant is inspired by Morocco, where his mother is from, and named for the country’s current king, Mohammed VI.
“I’ve been wanting to open a Moroccan-style restaurant for a long time,” Poremba said. He’d had his eye on the space for a while, and said he has long wanted to set up shop in Maplewood.
The seasonal menu at The Benevolent King will consist of approximately six small plates and five to six larger plates that will rotate almost daily. Poremba said the food won’t be traditional Moroccan but will take inspiration from the flavors of the region. The inaugural menu will feature such dishes as shaved veal tongue with golden raisins, capers and sumac; ris de veau, a tajine of sweetbreads, black garlic and harissa, parsnip and gem lettuce; and shrimp Mogador with urfa pepper and chermoula.
Tony Saputo, who most recently helmed the bar at Atomic Cowboy, will manage the bar program. The drinks menu will boast 18 signature cocktails, like the Sacred/Not Sacred with rum, rye whiskey, two types of amari, tiki bitters and Cocchi Rosa; and 6, a Green Chartreuse sour topped with a raspberry foam.
The interior of The Benevolent King will seat approximately 28 and will feature local artwork and eclectic furnishings and light fixtures for a laid back, yet upscale, vibe. “It feels like a social club – very comfortable,” Poremba said.
Poremba and another cook will run the kitchen, though Poremba said his mother, Rachel, will also help with some of the desserts and a daily mezze plate. “It’s the smallest kitchen in the world,” Poremba said. “But I love a challenge. I’m itching to get back in the kitchen.”
The Benevolent King will be open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner service. Poremba said the kitchen will most likely close at 10 p.m., but the bar will remain open later.
Matt Sorrell is staff writer at Sauce Magazine.
This article appears in March 2018.