1. Berkshire Pig at Vicia
The best restaurant of the year also served the best pork dish. Cooked to butter-softness and finished on the grill for a hint of smoke, the small serving rivaled any chop. On my visit before Vicia switched to family-style mains, the pork was served with a rich assortment of shelling beans and wild blooms – don’t forget to order those separately.
2. Seared Lacquered Halibut at Polite Society
Glazed with miso butter and highlighted with ginger, this was the best piece of fish I ate in 2017. Serving it on a bed of aromatic jasmine rice congee with vegetables made it the best fish entree.
3. Grilled Octopus at Nixta
Like a fool, I didn’t have the pulpo until months after I reviewed Ben Poremba’s upscale Mexican restaurant. With crispy tentacles and tender meat brightened by almond mole and garnished with charred lettuce, it’s no wonder this is Nixta’s most popular dish.
Michael Renner is Sauce Magazine’s longtime restaurant critic who pens New & Notable.
This article appears in December 2017.
