Normally for this column, we’d pick a recipe from a cookbook and describe our experience in preparing it. This month, however, we’ve chosen gorgeous, hardbound tomes written by culinary gods. Being that we’re prone to making messes, we’d prefer to give the winners of the cookbook giveaway untainted copies. Also, as you can see from a couple of photos taken from the pages of Ritz Paris Haute Cuisine (recipes by Michel Roth and text by Jean-François Mespléde), unless I took a week off work (and invested in a culinary education), I, mere mortal, would have a pretty hard time replicating these breathtaking dishes.
From the opening story detailing César Ritz’s dream of creating the best hotel in the world to Ritz’s relationship with Auguste Escoffier, the first executive chef at Ritz Paris, to the perspective of the current heir of the luxury hotel’s kitchen, Michel Roth, the first chapter of Ritz Paris, “To Whet Your Appetite,” reads like a culinary thriller.
{Mango and Raspberry Vacherin}
From there, the book moves on to a lengthy chapter, “Recipes from l’Espadon,” which showcases recipes and photos of cold appetizers; hot appetizers; fish and shellfish; meat and poultry; game; and desserts. The famed l’Espadon is the gastronomic restaurant at the Ritz Paris. Some of these dishes have been appearing at the hotel since 1898 but have never been published until now.
{Sea Urchins in their Shells, Broccoli Romanesco Mousseline, and Crisp Poilâne Bread}
The next chapter is “Classics,” which might have been included for the reader’s morale (Yes, mere mortal, you too can make a Club Sandwich, but we dare you to make it look as beautiful.). The last chapter, “Basic Recipes,” gives instructions for Ritz staples such as Navarin Jus and Fish Fumet.
Ritz Paris Haute Cuisine might never make it into your kitchen (unless you have a decorative cookbook holder worthy of its beauty), but sometimes books like these are better suited to simply gaze upon. Since the actual Ritz Paris is undergoing a complete renovation, even the most sophisticated crowd can’t experience this haute cuisine until doors reopen in 2014. With this book, allow your imagination to transport you.
Reprinted with permission from Flammarion Press
If you could visit any restaurant in the world, which would it be and why? Tell us about it in the comments section below for a chance to win a copy of Ritz Paris Haute Cuisine. We’ll announce the winner in next week’s By the Book column. And now, we’d like to congratulate Amanda, whose comment on last week’s By the Book has won her a copy of Heston Blumenthal at Home. Amanda, keep an eye out for an email from the Sauce crew.
This article appears in December 2012.