Endpapered in late-Victorian ink marbling, Robert Simonson’s “The Old-Fashioned: The Story of the World’s First Classic Cocktail” exists in praise of an august, sometimes neglected fixture of American liquor lore. The Old-Fashioned, arguably the ur-cocktail – the first of its kind – is durable, classic and a test of any bartender’s hand at the basics. And as Simonson tells us, it’s got history behind it, too.
The New York Times cocktail columnist – passionate, occasionally glib – plays his cards close to his chest, paying out historical tidbits about the drink while insinuating his secret knowledge of the authentic recipe. But even Simonson forgets that “authentic” is not the point – the Old-Fashioned is really a piece of folklore, whose various generations have mutated over the years.
The book’s latter half is filled with recipes, including the notable ones from early 20th-century cocktail books and a few modern reimaginings. I mixed up one of each – the time-honored recipe for an orthodox Old-Fashioned and the gin-based Elder-Fashioned, invented by Manhattan bartender Phil Ward in 2007.
The ingredient list for the classic is simple: whiskey, bitters, sugar and an orange peel to garnish. On the rye-versus-bourbon debate, Simonson says this: “Simply put, bourbon will give you a mellower and sweeter cocktail, whereas rye will deliver a bit more spice and kick.” I went with Knob Creek Rye.
An ice purist, Simonson scoffs at the flimsy cubes made in home ice trays. He suggests half-filling water balloons for a glasslike, lasting orb of ice that won’t dilute your beverage. Put them in the freezer a few hours before mixing. The balloon cuts away easily with a knife or scissors.
One of the drink’s early evolutionary quirks was the placement of a silver spoon in the glass as a garnish, part of a larger ethos among pre-Prohibition bartenders of relinquishing control to the customer, allowing them to stir and muddle the beverage at their pleasure. Though this custom has fallen out somewhat, in our age of DIY drinkmaking, I decided to follow suit. Lacking sugar cubes, I used granulated sugar. Muddle, pour whiskey, add ice and stir.
The simplicity of the recipe speaks for itself – the result is a well-balanced, traditional Old-Fashioned that goes down easy. Be judicious with the water at first – a spoonful is too much – since the ice more than adequately mellows the cocktail after a few minutes. When garnishing, shave only the zest of the orange and rub the peel along the edge of the glass before squeezing the oil inside.
Assembly of the Elder-Fashioned proved equally simple. Stir together gin, orange bitters and St. Germain, that wondrous elixir adored by starry-eyed barkeeps everywhere. This version is more herbal and citrusy, sweetened by the elderflower. Brunch-goers should consider adding this to their list of midday tipples.
Robert Simonson’s Rye Old-Fashioned
Makes 1
2 oz. rye
1 sugar cube
2 dashes Angostura bitters
Orange twist
• In an Old-Fashioned glass, muddle the sugar, bitters and a spoonful of warm water until the sugar is dissolved. Add the rye. Stir. Add 1 large chunk of ice and stir until chilled. Twist a large piece of orange zest over the drink and drop into the glass.
Phil Ward’s Elder-Fashioned Makes 1
2 oz. Plymouth gin
½ oz. St. Germain elderflower liqueur
2 dashes orange bitters
Grapefruit twist
• Combine all the ingredients except the grapefruit twist in an Old-Fashioned glass. Add 1 large chunk of ice and stir until chilled. Twist a piece of grapefruit zest over the drink and drop into the glass.
Special thanks to Mission Taco Joint for supplying the St. Germain for this recipe. How do you riff on your favorite classic cocktail – and what do you call the result? Tell us about it in the comments section below for a chance to win a copy of “The Old-Fashioned.” We’ll announce the winner in next week’s By the Book column. And now, congratulations to Sue, whose comment on last week’s By the Book column has won her a copy of “Own Your Kitchen.” Sue, keep an eye out for an email from the Sauce crew.
This article appears in May 2014.