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The viognier grape can be quite troublesome. In fact, it was nearly extinct in 1965; only 8 to 30 acres were planted in the Rhone during that time. It has a notoriously low yield. It’s risky to plant at all; it’s more susceptible to powdery mildew than many other grape varietals. If harvested before the fruit is at its ripest, the grape produces low-acid wines with no character. But wait too long and winemakers have a hot, flabby, oily, off-kilter mess on their hands. So why would anyone gamble on viognier?
One whiff of the storied viognier from Château-Grillet should be enough to answer that question. It is the epitome of every viognier tasting note: not just white flower, but also lush gardenia and dewy honeysuckle. Not just orchard fruit, but also ripe peaches picked after a summer storm. It’s full-bodied but has lively acid, and the long finish lingers until the sun goes down. However, not everyone has the $100-plus that bottle can run. Thankfully, there are plenty of good viognier alternatives from the Rhone, Australia and the U.S.
We particularly like the wine coming from Jaffrus Wine Cellars in California’s Santa Maria Valley. Owner Craig Jaffurs makes just 850 cases of viognier, grown in his 159-year-old Bien Nacido Vineyard, and his winemaking style includes fermenting and aging the wine in a combination of stainless-steel and neutral French oak barrels.
The nose on this wine has bright, white peach character with subtle underlying tones of honeysuckle and lilac. The front palate is silky soft with hints of spicy herb and white pepper. This wine is incredibly balanced with flavors of apricot, honeydew melon and gardenia mingling with earth and garrigue. Although it’s fairly full bodied and lush, there’s ample acid on the incredibly long finish. Pair this one with hearty seafood dishes or spicier fare with an Asian flourish. Available at The Wine and Cheese Place in Clayton.
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This article appears in Readers’ Choice 2014.