J’s Pitaria makes its spinach and cheese Mediterranean pie the traditional way, hand-stretching the phyllo dough before stuffing, coiling and baking it into a transcendent spiral of verdant perfection. The pastry tenderly cradles its earthy spinach and mildly creamy cheese filling, its crackly exterior shattering upon the initial bite. Pro tip: Order a glass of ayran, a savory yogurt drink, to go with your pie; the salty beverage is a perfect counterpoint to the pie’s richness.
This article appears in March/April 2021.