Like many century-old homes on our block, there’s a small window-sized wooden box built into the exterior brick wall of our kitchen. Though it’s long since been covered by drywall and cabinets, this larder reminds us of a bygone era when busy cooks made use of the natural refrigeration during St. Louis’ colder months. Back then, simple foods raised in backyard gardens and henhouses during the warmer months were pickled, salted or preserved to last through the lean winter.
This month’s project follows in that same vein of preservation. Centuries ago, the French used this technique during hunting season, salting duck and goose legs and then slowly cooking them in their own fat at very low temperatures to break down tougher pieces. They were then placed in a crock, covered with the cooking fat to keep the meat from oxidizing and placed in a cool cellar or larder to last through the winter. Traditionally served with white beans or cassoulet in Southern France, this cooking technique produces surprisingly tender meat that can be stored for weeks and added to salads, appetizers – even nachos – at a moments notice.
Almost any meat can be preserved with confit, particularly poultry. While duck confit is familiar to many, confit chicken legs are just as tasty and easier to come by. This method isn’t limited to meat, either. Vegetables such as garlic or leeks can be slowly poached in olive oil, as can fruits like tomatoes or cherries.
Regardless of the creative application, the heart of this cooking technique is quite simple. First thing’s first: start saving and straining your bacon fat. Little by little, you’ll acquire enough to start a confit project. If you’d rather start now (or just don’t want to fry pounds of bacon), hit up your local whole-animal butcher shop. Many now sell rendered fats: bacon and pork fat is available at Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions, The Block in Webster Groves and Truffles Butchery. You can also try beef, lamb, schmaltz or even duck fat, available at Annie Gunn’s Smokehouse and Market. Mix and match your meats and fats; we prefer the smoky taste bacon fat lends to poultry.
This project comes with two recipe ideas. The first is an elegant presentation of whole confit leg with crisp skin served on a rustic, flavorful eggplant and tomato sauce. The second is, well, nachos. And there is nothing wrong with that.
The Gameplan Day 1: Cure the chicken legs.
Day 2: Confit the chicken legs. Make Chicken Confit with Eggplant Sauce or Chicken Confit Nachos.
The Shopping List* 1 Tbsp. black peppercorns
1 Tbsp. white peppercorns
2 tsp. juniper berries
6-7 sprigs fresh thyme leaves
4 chicken or duck leg quarters, skin-on
4-5 cups bacon fat or other rendered animal fat**
1 eggplant
2 onions, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup dry white wine
1 28-oz. can tomatoes
1 bay leaf
8 oz. tortilla chips
1/3 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1/3 cup shredded pepperjack cheese
¼ cup sliced black olives
*This list assumes you have salt, sugar and freshly ground black pepper. If not, you will need to purchase these items, too. **Rendered animal fat is available for purchase at Annie Gunn’s Smokehouse Market, The Block in Webster Groves, Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions and Truffles Butchery.
Chicken Confit Makes 4 leg quarters
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns
1 Tbsp. white peppercorns
2 tsp. juniper berries
½ cup kosher salt
3 Tbsp. sugar
4-5 sprigs thyme
4 chicken leg quarters, skin-on (duck leg quarters can also be used)
4-5 cups bacon fat or other rendered animal fat *
? Day 1: Place the black and white peppercorns and juniper berries in a coffee or spice grinder and pulse until finely ground.
? Strip the thyme leaves from the stems and place them in the bowl of a food processor. Add the ground spice mixture, salt and sugar and pulse until well blended.
? Rub the leg quarters liberally with the spice cure on both sides. Place the seasoned leg quarters in a covered container or a zip-top bag and refrigerate. Let cure 18 to 24 hours.
? Day 2: Preheat the oven to 225 degrees.
? Rinse the excess spice mixture from the legs, pat dry with paper towels and place on a rack. Set aside.
? In a 12-inch nonreactive saucepan over medium-high heat, melt 4 cups fat. Place a thermometer in the fat and add the dry leg quarters, completely submerging them in the fat. Add the remaining 1 cup fat if necessary.
? When the fat reaches 225 degrees, place the pan in the oven and bake 1 hour 15 minutes. The meat is done when the skin starts to pull away from the leg.
? Remove the legs from the pan and place them in a large container with a lid. Pour the fat over the top of the legs, then cover and refrigerate. Confit legs will keep up to 3 months.
*Rendered animal fat is available for purchase at Annie Gunn’s Smokehouse Market, The Block in Webster Groves, Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions and Truffles Butchery.
Chicken Confit with Eggplant Sauce 4 servings
1 eggplant, diced
2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
2 Tbsp. confit fat (Recipe above)
2 onions, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup dry white wine
1 28-oz. can tomatoes
2 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 confit chicken leg quarters (Recipe above)
? Day 2: Place in a metal bowl and toss with 2 tablespoons salt. Let rest 30 minutes.
? Rinse the eggplant and drain in a colander. Set aside.
? In a large skillet over high heat, melt the fat and saute the eggplant 5 to 7 minutes, until browned on all sides. Add the onions, garlic and 2 teaspoons salt and saute 3 to 4 minutes more. Do not brown the garlic.
? Add the white wine to deglaze the pan, scraping up any brown bits from the bottom. Add the tomatoes, thyme and bay leaf and reduce the heat to medium-low. Let simmer 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
? Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
? Remove the confit remove from the fat and place skin side-down in a hot cast-iron skillet over high heat. After the skin starts to slightly brown, 2 to 3 minutes, then transfer to oven and bake 20 to 30 minutes, until heated through and skin is caramelized.
? To serve, divide the sauce between 4 plates, then top with 1 leg quarter each. Serve with rice or mashed potatoes.
Chicken Confit Nachos 4 servings
8 oz. tortilla chips
1 cup cold pulled confit chicken meat
1/3 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1/3 cup shredded pepperjack cheese
¼ cup sliced black olives
Optional garnishes: salsa, sour cream, pickled vegetables, chopped onion, guacamole, chopped cilantro
• Day 2: Spread half the tortilla chips on a large microwave-safe plate. Scatter half the meat, half the cheddar and pepperjack cheeses and half black olives over the chips. Add the remaining tortilla chips and scatter with the remaining meat, cheese and olives.
• Microwave on high in 30 second blasts until the cheese is melted. Garnish as desired and serve immediately.
-photos by Michelle Volansky
This article appears in February 2015.