Sep 1-30, 2008

Sep 1-30, 2008

Pickling Pros: Chefs elevate the versatile pickle

Lately, local chefs are doing a lot more with pickles than putting a slice on a burger or a spear alongside a sandwich. The pros know what home cooks have known for centuries: Pickling keeps the good stuff around longer. Plus, it’s a creative way to add more flavor to restaurant plates while maintaining a…

Review: Mizu Sushi Bar in St. Louis

St. Louis seems awash in sushi. Search for “Japanese/Sushi” on Sauce’s online Restaurant Guide and 58 entries pop up. Granted, most are restaurants or bars offering sushi as part of a larger menu, but still, no matter how you slice it, there’s a lot of vinegary rice and raw fish in this town. With so…

Review: O’Malley’s Irish Pub in St. Louis

Tommy Gage insisted that in four years of pulling dark pints and slinging whiskey to the masses at O’Malley’s Pub, he has never had to break up a single fight. I’m inclined to believe him, but it’s hard to mask some serious disappointment. Not that I’m looking for a brawl, but if I were, this…

Recipe: Moxy Bistro’s Scallops With Citrus-Fennel Slaw

What to eat when days are still warm and nights are getting cooler? The scallops at Moxy Bistro, chef-owner Eric Brenner’s simple but flavorful dish that’s been on the menu since the day the Central West End restaurant opened. It hits the spot anytime, but meaty caramelized scallops; bright, crunchy slaw; and tangy, buttery sauce…

How to Use Horseradish Root This Fall

Consider the horseradish root. Brown. Leathery. Knobby. Closely resembling an elephant’s foot or a caveman’s club. I don’t know who first thought horseradish might be something to eat, but I’m glad he or she discovered this unlovely root. Horseradish puts the zing in cocktail sauce, the sass in a seafood butter, and the bite in…

Fresh Pasta

INGREDIENTS 1 cup flour1 egg 1 egg yolk1 Tbsp. olive oilWarm water PREPARATION • Fill a large pot with lightly salted water and bring to a boil. • Mix together the flour, egg and egg yolk by hand or in a food processor. • Add the olive oil and enough water to make a dough.…

West side story

When it comes to Missouri wines, many of us seem to take a “the world is flat” approach, assuming that anything west of Rocheport is the land of fire and dragons. Granted, historically, vineyards in our state were once pretty much limited to the regions surrounding Augusta, Hermann and St. James. But that’s not the…

Will Work for Food: Hungry chefs take to the stage

When Gerard Craft jet-hopped to bonny London for a wedding last year, his suitcase carried the usual: clothes, shoes, toiletries and kitchen knives. “People’s knives are very personal. You don’t touch somebody else’s knives,” said Craft, executive chef and owner of Niche Restaurant in Benton Park. The mild-mannered Craft doesn’t always pack cutlery, mind you…

‘Boy, that [M]ango sure is good’

You know your kids have become foodies when they start telling you where you should go out to eat – and their selection has nothing to do with golden arches or cardboard crowns. All four of us were tooling around in the car one afternoon, with Kathy and I mulling over dining possibilities, when Duncan…

Simplicity and precision at Franco

Justin Keimon has been behind the stove at Franco since the restaurant’s debut two years ago, and the food has never been better than it is today. This steady progress is a result of Keimon’s continuous menu-tweaking and his desire to reach a higher level. As a member of the American Culinary Federation and a…

In a pinch? Pasta!

In the time it takes for a pot of water to come to a boil, you can make homemade pasta. From scratch. Really. Fresh pasta is not a day-long endeavor, but truly a 30-minute dinner. And when it is made from scratch, the pasta is light and delicate and utterly delicious. So delicious that you…

Put your money on Vienna Beef

When you eat a Chicago-style hot dog, you’d best put your money on Vienna Beef – the king of Chicago dogs and the brand served by a sizeable chunk of Chicago’s hot dog slingers. Going with anything else would be breaking tradition. Thankfully, Pam’s Chicago-Style Dogs and More, a new spot in the East Loop,…


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