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December 2011

Dec 1-31, 2011

More from our conversation with Kathleen McGowan

In December’s Five Questions column (page 54), we spoke with Kathleen McGowan, who recently opened Blondie’s Coffee and Wine Bar downtown, about her signature popovers, where the name “Blondie’s” came from and the never-ending revitalization of Washington Avenue. Now in the second part of this interview, McGowan reveals her favorite thing on her menu, how…

Chocolate Ganache Frosting

• In a large heavy pot, heat the cream, butter and sugar over medium-low heat until the butter is melted and the sugar is dissolved. Watch carefully so that it doesn’t boil over. • Just as the mixture reaches a boil, turn off the heat, add the chopped chocolate and let it sit for 5…

Choosing the Cover

I fancy myself a cheeseburger connoisseur, and let me tell you, what you see on this month’s cover is a damn good burger. One press day, around dinnertime, we were cooped up in the office with a mountain of work ahead of us. I had a craving for a burger, and I had been wanting…

Recipe: Wild Flower’s New World Carbonara

This time of year, we crave foods that are terrible for our waistlines, indulgences we always regret come spring. So when we fell for the New World Carbonara at The Wild Flower, in which crisp pancetta is folded into a luxurious cream sauce that clings to long strands of pasta, we were concerned. But our…

Review: Blood & Sand in St. Louis

Set a block from the traffic and neon of Washington Avenue, through a dark side street juxtaposed with dumpsters and nearby loading docks, Blood & Sand – a private, members-only drinking and eating club – is one of the smartest additions to downtown’s burgeoning cocktail and nightlife scene. Well conceived. Impeccably designed. Hard to locate.…

Review: The Side Door in St. Louis

The Side Door, 236 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.7771 Once you figure it out, Jim Fiala’s pocked-sized restaurant, The Side Door, is a great little spot. As the name suggests, the eatery is an appendage – specifically, the renovated back room – to Fiala’s successful Liluma restaurant in the Central West End. And like…

Review: Korea House in Creve Coeur

Editor’s note: Korea House has closed.  In the back of an unassuming strip mall in the middle of Creve Coeur lies one of St. Louis’ hidden jewels. Reopened by the son of the previous owner (Back then, it was named Hangook Kwan.), Korea House serves up spectacular traditional Korean food. Though the expansive restaurant spans…

Pretty Patrons, Average Plates

At a cavernous 8,000 square feet, Lucas Park Grille can pack ’em in by the hundreds. But despite the vast proportions of the restaurant’s physical space, its clientele seems to be drawn from a rather small pool. The young, beautiful, see-and-be-seen crowd makes a good showing here, with urban professionals conducting business over wines selected…

Fruitcake At Its Finest

When that fruitcake lands on your doorstep this year, avoid the urge to head straight for the composter. Instead, take the requisite slice, then crumble, slice and bake this fruit-and-booze-laden present into these surprisingly tasty (We promise!) delights. 1. Eggnog-soaked French toast Cut 5 ¾-inch slices of fruitcake; set aside. Break 2 eggs into a…

Layering Up for Winter

If you played Operation as a child, you know that success in the battery-operated surgery game depended on a very steady hand. The same goes for adults when preparing a category of drink called pousse-café. Although this French term meaning “coffee pusher” refers to cordials and brandies that might be served after dinner, in the…

“Meat”loaf and Mashed Potatoes

Meatloaf often gets a bad rap. Kids groan when it lands on the dinner menu. Passersby in the cafeteria line eye it with trepidation. And, you know, I get it: A big block-like chunk of ground meat can look pretty unappetizing, especially if there is no sauce atop it. I was lucky enough to grow…

Short List: Sweetbreads

Sweetbreads are popping up on more and more menus in town – although there still aren’t many places in our fair city that serve them on a regular basis. Those that do have a passion for them, and that’s a boon for those of us who love this tasty offal. Preparations vary, but we’re open…


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