Goldilocks and the Three Dolcettos

Dolcetto has frequently been called the “Beaujolais of Italy,” which has bothered me for years, because it’s totally inaccurate and unfair to France’s Beaujolais. Here are three exciting and dramatically different views of this beautiful red grape. Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d’Alba, 2010, Piedmont, Italy At first sip, this wine seemed unusual for a Dolcetto, a…

This week, Stacy Schultz is obsessed with

{After reading Gabrielle Hamilton’s Blood, Bones & Butter, I was in search of another culinary memoir, this time one with recipes (the absolute only thing missing from Hamilton’s masterpiece). Luisa Weiss’ My Berlin Kitchen is just the kind of winter read I was craving: filled with difficult life decisions tinged with the sweet smell of pea soup…

The Scoop: The Restaurant and Basso lose executive pastry chef

Lisa Fernandez-Cruz has resigned as executive pastry chef at The Cheshire’s The Restaurant and Basso. Fernandez-Cruz left her post less than two weeks after her husband Wilfin Fernandez-Cruz resigned as the executive chef at The Restaurant. The Cheshire’s public relations firm Twist confirmed her resignation but has offered no comment. Lisa has not shared her…

The Scoop: It’s nearly mission accomplished for Mission Taco

Last summer, restaurateurs Adam and Jason Tilford announced their plans to open Mission Taco Joint. Renovations are moving along inside the former home of Delmar Lounge at 6235 Delmar Blvd., and the Tilford brothers are aiming to unlock doors during the last week of February. With opening day just weeks away, Jason gave The Scoop…

The Scoop: New downtown gastropub nears opening

Flying Saucer Draught Emporium is preparing to open doors at its new St. Louis location. Construction of the gastropub, located just west of Busch Stadium at 900 Spruce St., is on target for a March 1 grand opening, according to Flying Saucer’s assistant general manager Rebecca Keiffer. Among the highlights, she noted, is a patio…

Meatless Monday: Apple-Cheddar-Kale Sandwich

Ever have those nights when a sandwich just sounds … so … perfect? Where the bread is grilled to buttery perfection, and you just so happen to have your favorite chips stashed in the cupboard? This sandwich — stuffed with fruit and bitter kale — strikes a wonderful balance between savory and sweet (with an…

The Scoop: Chris Lee announces his next move

Chris Lee has taken the position as catering and banquet chef at River City Casino, located in South County. As reported by The Scoop, this past December Lee put in his resignation as executive chef for the hospitality group In Good Company. The group’s restaurants include Café Ventana, Sanctuaria, Diablitos Cantina and Hendricks BBQ. — photo by Jonathan S.…

The Gentlemen of Chicken take on St. Louis

Meet Derek Coleman (pictured, left) and Kevin Seltzer (right), otherwise known as the Gentlemen of Chicken. Their mission? To find the best fried chicken the Greater St. Louis area has to offer (or die trying – presumably – of cardiac arrest). These gentlemen (who work as a lawyer and bartender on the side) are true…

The Scoop: St. Louis’ oldest bakery up for sale

Robert and Linda Smith are ready to retire. The husband-wife owners of Carondelet Bakery have been the mom and pop behind the stand-alone retail shop at 7726 Virginia Ave., for nearly 40 years. For Linda Smith, putting the bakery up for sale is, well, bittersweet. Carondelet Bakery, which opened in 1875, is the oldest bakery…

This week, Ligaya Figueras is obsessed with

The Loop abounds with drink and dine options. Here are three things I love in this fabulously walkable section of town. {Duck confit empanadas at Nico. Unctuous shredded duck is tucked inside flaky pastry and served with pepper and truffle aioli. There’s a reason these pockets of meaty goodness have stayed on the menu since…

Just Five: Shiitake Encrusted Beef Medallions

I recently came across an article about shiitake powder and how it transforms food, due to the umami it imparts. Umami is a big deal. It’s sort of the bacon of the current food trends. In a nutshell, it’s one of the five basic tastes in Japanese cooking which also include sweet, sour, salty and…

Hot Spot: EdgeWild’s fire room

On these cold winter nights, have you been wishing that your home (or office or car or desk …) had a fireplace? At EdgeWild, evoke the joys of camping without all the hard work. The circular fire room is the spot to warm up, grab drinks and gather ’round a fire with friends. Who wants…

By the Book: Dirt Candy’s Radish Ravioli

If you love to be creative and cook vegetarian food at home, the cookbook Dirt Candy by Amanda Cohen, Ryan Dunlavey and Grady Hendrix is awesome. These vegetarian recipes are not your average; they’re completely creative and give you a plethora of technique in order to treat vegetables so that they’re not just roasted –…

The Scoop: ‘Cue changes at two local restaurants

Lampert’s BBQ will soon be back in business. Father-daughter team Larry and Angie Lampert (pictured), the faces behind Plush Pig BBQ (at one time located in Clayton and later in Rock Hill) and Mister Lunch in Maryland Heights, have closed the latter, in preparation of re-opening Mister Lunch as Lampert’s BBQ. Lampert’s will offer barbecue…

We love Local Harvest’s chicken salad sandwich

Editor’s note: Local Harvest Grocery & Cafe has closed. Looking for an affordable lunch to tame your grumbling tummy and fill you with some STL pride? Turn to the Chicken Salad Sandwich at Local Harvest Grocery & Cafe’s new Kirkwood location. Chunks of pasture-raised chicken cooked to tasty perfection and crunchy celery and onions cling to creamy…

Drink This Weekend Edition: Magical mixing with Tomr’s Tonic

The notion of stocking up on beverages usually pertains to soda, beer and wine, but every since I’ve become acquainted with Tomr’s Handcrafted Tonic Syrup Concentrate, I’m bent on acquiring as much of this mixer as possible. Why am I compelled to hoard? This small-batch cocktail accessory lends a tasty touch of woodsy tonic flavor…

Wil Fernandez-Cruz has left The Restaurant

Wilfrin Fernandez-Cruz has left his post as executive chef of The Cheshire’s The Restaurant. Fernandez-Cruz and his wife Lisa, executive pastry chef at The Restaurant and Basso, moved from New York City in late August and started preparing for The Restaurant’s opening in early September. Although Wil loved the large kitchen at The Restaurant and…

This week, Julie Cohen is obsessed with …

{This True Colossal Ice Cube Tray found at The Wine & Cheese Place makes for the cutest gift. Who doesn’t love transforming a run-of-the-mill gin and tonic into a craft cocktail?} {The Brussels sprouts on the menu at Le Coq, a month-long pop-up restaurant presented by John Perkins of Entre, are divine. Made with smoked chicken…

Sauce Celebrity Chef Series presents an afternoon with Deb Perelman

For you home cooks out there, when it comes to Deb Perelman, creator of the celebrated food blog Smitten Kitchen, we’re willing to wager that your crush on her is just about as big as ours. Well, we have good news. For Sauce’s next Celebrity Chef Series presented in partnership with Left Bank Books, Perelman is…

The Scoop: Katie’s Pizza and Pasta is new project by Katie Lee

Katie Lee, founder of Katie’s Pizzeria at 6611 Clayton Road in Clayton, has a new project. Her latest venture is Katie’s Pizza and Pasta, an artisan pizzeria and pasta house – complete with wood-fired oven and an open kitchen – featuring pastas, mozzarella and cured meats, all prepared in-house. Working with Lee on the new…

Baked: Brownie Cupcakes with Mint or Toffee

Anyone who knows me knows that I love the combination of mint and chocolate. I will try any mint chocolate dessert in sight, any time. My favorite is the Ghirardelli mint chocolate squares. I like seeing the mint, not just having it infused into my dessert. I do, however, find After Eights too strong for…

The Scoop: Short life for Abby’s Shell Corner Cafe

Abby’s Shell Corner Cafe has closed. The Riverfront Times’ Ian Froeb reported late last week that there were signs that the cafe, located downtown at 1221 Locust St., inside the Shell Building, might have shuttered. An employee at the Shell Building confirmed this morning that doors have been locked at the cafe for nearly a…

What are finger limes?

Not for your guac, marg or tortilla soup, a finger lime is a most unconventional citrus fruit. Native to the eastern coastal rain forests of Australia, this elongated, gherkin-shaped micro-citrus comes in a rainbow of shades: from green to yellow to pink to rusty red. Inside are tiny juice spheres that look like caviar but…

The Scoop: More Mexican

Get ready for más Mexican. The owners of Espino’s Mexican Bar & Grill in Chesterfield Valley are opening another eatery. Senora Espinos Taquería will open soon in O’Fallon, Mo., at 840 Bryan Road just off of I-70 in the space formerly occupied by Cappuccino’s Coffee Cafe. According to an employee at Espino’s – which was recently…

Meatless Monday: Creamy Corn Chowder

I don’t know about you, but Monday nights at our house are a loose extension of the weekend. Our energy levels are still in recovery mode; our stomachs are hungover from delicious dine-in and takeout, and we’re slowly (and begrudgingly) getting back into our work routines. All of these feelings generally translate into making some…

The Scoop: Vegetarian restaurant Tree House coming to South Grand

A new restaurant is coming to South Grand. Tree House, a vegetarian restaurant, will be opening at 3177 S. Grand Blvd., in the space formerly occupied by Petra Cafe and Hookah Lounge. Tree House owner Chi “Bay” Tran – a relative of the Tran family who operates Vietnamese restaurant Mekong on South Grand – is…

Clayton Restaurant Week is just around the corner

Let’s hope this warm weather holds out, because a great week of dining out is fast approaching. The 4th annual Clayton Restaurant Week will take place from Monday, January 21 through Sunday, January 27. This year’s lineup includes 17 of Clayton’s fine dining establishments offering a special three-course dinner for a fixed price of $25 per person, plus…

5 questions with Wil and Lisa Fernandez-Cruz

We all know mixing business and pleasure can be a recipe for disaster, but for Wilfrin and Lisa Fernandez-Cruz, there’s never been a difference between the two. They met while working at 202, a now-closed restaurant in New York’s Chelsea Market. Wil, having emigrated from the Dominican Republic, had climbed the restaurant ladder to sous…

Make this egg drop soup

Still stuffed from rich, holiday fare? Join the club. This month, we’re craving simple sustenance, and when we need quick comfort on a cold day, we turn to egg drop soup. Start by dissolving 1½ tablespoons of cornstarch in the same amount of water in a small bowl. In a separate bowl, beat 2 eggs,…

The Scoop: Taj Indian Cuisine opens on Main Street in Edwardsville

This past fall, amid much news of restaurant action in Edwardsville., Ill., – such as Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood planning to add a location, plus a trio of debuts that included Michael del Pietro’s Sugo’s Spaghetteria, Craft Chophouse and Tropical Escape Tiki Bar & Grill, one restaurant slipped under The Scoop’s radar: Taj Indian Cuisine. Taj…

This week, Meera Nagarajan is obsessed with …

{The Favorite Royal Riviera Pears from Harry & David. These pears taste like they’ve been injected with sugar. $29.95 for a box of 9. West County Mall, 7 West County Center, 314.909.8810} {I love Gourmet Magazine. It’s beautiful and painterly, and I miss seeing a new issue come in the mail every month. I hoard a stack of…

Calling amateur chefs for the Mardi Gras Crystal Cajun Cook-Off

Are you one of those people who watch reality TV cooking competitions like MasterChef and Chopped, totally convinced you’d best the contestants? Now is your big chance to prove it by participating in the amateur division of the Mardi Gras Crystal Cajun Cook-Off to compete for title of the best Cajun/Creole dish. This year’s cook-off…

Just Five: Scallion pancakes with smoked trout

These pancakes are fun as a side dish or as an appetizer (served with a little crème fraîche, perhaps?). The green color is a bit shocking; I immediately wanted to serve them with a corn salad of some kind. The smokiness of the trout mixed with the sharpness of the scallions is really a lovely…

18 Questions for Andy Heaslet of Griffin Delivery

Andy Heaslet had to change the name of his South Grand Delivered restaurant-delivery service to Griffin Delivery for the best of reasons: He expanded his territory to downtown. More territory means more adventures, like the strange interludes with a customer known as “The Hand.” 1. Which restaurants’ food does Griffin Delivery deliver now? Lunch downtown…

The Scoop: A round of bartending news

With beverage programs holding their weight against food menus these days, it’s not enough to simply keep up with what the chefs around town are up to. A trio of talented area bartenders are doing some moving and shaking worthy of notice. Jamie Kilgore, the bartender at Cielo Bar and Restaurant whose face adorned the…

Eat this sweet potato falafel at Lulu’s Local Eatery

Set your annual weight-loss resolution for 2013? Allow us to help. The sweet potato falafel at Lulu’s Local Eatery will have you eating healthy without even realizing it. The falafel is fried, yes, but it’s loaded with sweet potato, which is jam-packed with fiber and nutrients, and studded with good-for-you greens. It gets wrapped in…

By the Book: Kelli and Peter Bronski’s Scalloped Potatoes and Ham

Don’t tell the kosher-keeping side of my husband’s family, but sometimes I crave ham. Not bacon, not pork chops, just good old fashioned ham. Rather than buying myself a Christmas ham once a month, I have found that thickly sliced, quality deli meat does the trick. Eating a baggie of ham doesn’t quite make for…

Meatless Monday: Fresh Quinoa Bowl

Well, here we are; another year is under our expanded, post-holiday belt. As I write this, I’m sitting in some stretchy pants (a staple in my dresser at the beginning of a new year), recalling all the cheesy, creamy, buttery dishes my vegetarian self devoured at the end of 2012. Yet, although my mind might…

The Scoop: St. Louis slated for 2013 Celebrity Chef Tour

St. Louis has been named one of 14 cities scheduled as a stop on the 2013 Celebrity Chef Tour. The tour, which benefits the James Beard Foundation, is a traveling dinner series that spotlights talented chefs from around the country. The multi-course feast in St. Louis is scheduled to take place on September 19 at…

The Scoop: The Good Pie to relocate to The Loop

The Good Pie is moving. The Neopolitan pizzeria will be relocating to 6665 Delmar Blvd., in The Loop, said owner Mike Randolph, who called The Scoop today to inform us that he had just signed the lease on the property in U. City. The Good Pie’s future home, which is currently occupied by Ginger Bistro,…

Spiced Walnuts

• Heat a saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the walnuts and lightly toast them, stirring often, for about 5 minutes. • Add the brown sugar and cayenne pepper, and stir to incorporate. • Add a splash of water and season with salt to taste. Raise the heat to medium and cook until the water…

Caramel Apple Purée

• Heat a saute pan over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until it’s hot. • Add a thin coat of oil, then add the apples and caramelize them on all sides until they’re very brown. • Add 2 tablespoons of butter and the reserved caramel, and cook until the apples are very…

Whipped Honey-Thyme Butter

• Place all of the ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whip for approximately 1 minute, or just until all of the ingredients are fully combined and the butter has slightly lightened in texture. • Once the butter is whipped, keep it at room temperature until you’re ready…

Foie Gras Ice Cream

• Make an ice bath in a large bowl. Set aside. • Add Ÿ cup of sugar and a small amount of water to a stainless steel saute pan set over medium heat. Cook until the mixture turns a light amber, about 10 minutes. • Add the foie gras and cook it on all sides…

Caramelized Apples

• Heat a saute pan over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until it’s hot. • Add a thin coat of oil, then add the apples on their flat side and sear them. When they begin to brown, add 2 tablespoons of butter and continue to sear the apples until they are deeply…

Get Your Nog In: Eggnog 3 ways

As they say: What are the holidays without eggnog? So you buy a quart of the seasonal stuff and there it sits in the fridge, barely sipped, well into the New Year. Instead of throwing out a near-full carton come January, fry it into French toast, bake it into rich cheesecake, even toss it with…

Drink This Weekend Edition: How aboot some Canadian whiskey, eh?

Dan Tullio, Master Ambassador of Canadian whiskey for Beam Global, will be in St. Louis in the days ahead to spread the good word about his country’s native spirit. Tullio, who has worked for Beam for more than 30 years, chatted with Sauce about “lighter than Scotch, smoother than bourbon” Canadian whiskey; about Canadian Club…

Ask the Chef: David Choi

Seoul Taco co-owner David Choi built his food truck into one of the city’s most popular, then took a wild leap and opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant with the same name in The Loop this past fall. He still hits the road, though. In fact, one of his prize gigs is feeding the St. Louis Rams…

The Scoop: Doors shut at La Dolce Via, Carondelet Diner

Did you get one final sweet bite of from-scratch goodness at La Dolce Via? Doors are now shut at the Forest Park Southeast eatery. Owners of the cafe and bakery located at 4470 Arco Ave., announced back in August that doors would close for good after service on January 1. Carondelet Diner, which opened doors a…

The Scoop: Bar and nightclub Honey headed for The Grove

A new bar and nightclub called Honey is coming to The Grove. The venue will be located at 4170 Manchester Ave., on the corner of Manchester and Kentucky Avenues. Although The Scoop has thus far been unable to discuss the new venture with the owners of Honey, a visit to its website revealed the following:…

Vegetize It: Boeuf Bourguignon

No one sneers at vegetarian cooking like the practitioners of classic French cuisine. Their recipes are so sacred, their art so carefully considered, that any substitution is viewed as an insult to the French people as a whole. Kelp powder in your veggie bouillabaisse? C’est scandaleux! So when I was assigned boeuf bourguignon to vegetize,…

The Scoop: Miso on Meramec to Close

Sushi restaurant and lounge Miso on Meramec is shuttering. “All good things must come to an end, and after an awesome 11-and-a-half-year run, Miso on Meramec will be closing its doors,” wrote owner Brad Beracha in a letter sent to supporters this past Monday. St. Louis Magazine’s George Mahe beat Beracha in sharing the news…

Baked: Twisted Chocolate Chip Cookies

I love, love, love chocolate chip cookies. I’ve played with my chocolate chip cookie recipe countless times and ways, baking a chocolate chip cake, brownies, even cupcakes. But I hardly ever mess with the original recipe. Until now. I thought I’d try adding in a teaspoon of soy sauce, some marshmallows and also feuilletine, an ingredient…

Ones to Watch 2013 // Bob Zugmaier

Why Watch Him: He switched from hot line to pastry. Now he’s on fire. Age: 30 They say you can’t really understand another person’s experience until you’ve walked a mile in his shoes. Who better to help us understand the sweet job that Bob Zugmaier has done since taking over as pastry chef at Sidney…

Ones to Watch 2013 // Matthew Daughaday

Why Watch Him: He’s developing a grown-up Taste. Age: 32 When Matthew Daughaday graduated from California Culinary Academy in San Francisco in 2008, his next step was to apply for an externship: unpaid, work experience in a professional kitchen. In his hometown of St. Louis, “people were talking about food way more” than before. Twenty…

Ones to Watch 2013 // Keyan Still

Why watch him: He pays attention like no bartender you’ve met before.  Age: 28 Keyan Still is a mere three years into his bartending career, yet his resume already reads strong: He’s not only shaken drinks at Pi, he developed the cocktail menu for the pizzeria’s downtown location and for Cafe Natasha’s. Now, as bar…

Ones to Watch 2013 // Andrew Jennrich

Why to Watch Him: He dove into Farmhaus’ nose-to-tail philosophy head first. Age: 33 Andrew Jennrich’s wife is convinced that if there was a swear jar at their house, it’d fast become their 401(k), but we figured we’d risk it. Here, Farmhaus’ chef de cuisine tells us how he got where he is today. When…

Ones to Watch 2013 // Bradley Hoffman

Editor’s note: Salt has closed. Why Watch Him: He became an executive chef faster than he could get his culinary-inspired sleeve tats filled in.  Age: 29 It’s hard to believe that just two years ago, Bradley Hoffmannn, now the executive chef at Salt, took his first job in a kitchen as a line cook at…

Ones to Watch 2013 // Thu Rein Oo

Why watch him: He can cook any type of fish while naming every U.S. Senator.  Age: 24 Five years ago, Thu Rein Oo walked into the kitchen of The Crossing. The Burmese refugee, who spent his teens in a Malaysian refugee camp, had just arrived in St. Louis and was looking for work. Jim Fiala,…

Ones to Watch 2013 // Jayne Pellegrino

Why Watch Her: She has a spirit you can’t find in a cocktail book. Age: 27 Jayne Pellegrino had only eight months’ experience stirring and shaking drinks before accepting a bartending job at Blood & Sand when it opened in September 2011. Why hire a novice for a members-only restaurant whose very existence is built…

Recipe: Trattoria Marcella’s Gnocchi de Patata Alla Romagnola

Eaten a dish at an area restaurant that you’d do just about anything to make at home? Send us an email at pr@saucemagazine.com to tell us about it. Then let us do our best to deliver the recipe and make it one of your New Classics. Gnocchi de Patata Alla RomagnolaCourtesy of Trattoria Marcella’s Steve…

Review: Little Country Gentleman in Clayton

This review started well before Little Country Gentleman opened. But first, a recap: Mike Randolph owns The Good Pie, a Midtown Neopolitan pizza place, and Half & Half, a breakfast-and-lunch eatery in Clayton. At night, staff transformed Half & Half into Medianoche: a Mexican-inspired dinner-only restaurant. I thought the concept intriguing, if not a bit…

Review: The Shack Pubgrub in Midtown St. Louis

Editor’s note: This restaurant has closed. Things have officially changed for the better at 3818 Laclede Ave. After a string of failed reincarnations, the space that formerly housed the infamous Laclede’s has been successfully overhauled – gutted, polished and recast for a new generation as The Shack. While it’s sad to think that Midtown’s house…

Pickled Fennel and Kohlrabi

• Place the fennel and kohlrabi in a heatproof container with a tight-fitting lid. Keep uncovered. • Add the vinegar, water, salt and honey to a medium sauce pot and bring to a boil. • Pour the boiling liquid over the shaved fennel and kohlrabi. Cover and place in the refrigerator overnight. • When ready…

Smoked Chicken Hearts

• Soak the chicken hearts in enough milk to cover. Place in the refrigerator overnight. • Remove the hearts from the milk and discard the milk. Rinse the hearts under cold water. • In a large bowl, combine 1 gallon of water with the salt and brown sugar. Whisk until all of the salt and…

By the Book: Sara Forte’s Edamame Dumplings

Depending on your definition of diet, I’m either always on a diet or never on one. If I had to define my diet, it would be eating primarily whole foods prepared as wholesomely but flavorfully as possible. The cookbooks we’ve chosen this month all fit that regiment. They aren’t focused on weight loss, but they…

3 ways to cook with Champagne

That pulsing headache isn’t the only reminder of the endless clinking and drinking of New Year’s Eve. There’s also that half-full bottle of bubbly on the counter. And since there’s no way that cork’s fitting back in (We promise, stop trying.), it’s time to make that liquid hangover reminder your kitchen’s new workhorse. Whether your…

Bubbling Over

That pulsing headache isn’t the only reminder of the endless clinking and drinking of New Year’s Eve. There’s also that half-full bottle of bubbly on the counter. And since there’s no way that cork’s fitting back in (We promise, stop trying.), it’s time to make that liquid hangover reminder your kitchen’s new workhorse. Whether your…

Make this vegetarian jambalaya

It’s the crisper’s fault. I want to eat healthy, veggie-filled meals. But contrary to its name, my refrigerator drawer only offers up squishy greens. I mean, they’re probably safe, but they might kill me, and who wants that drama on a Sunday night? Imagine my relief to discover Cajun cuisine – an entire genre dedicated…


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