Back from the brink

What’s true in fashion is also true in the world of spirits: If you wait long enough, everything comes back in style. Mixologists these days are looking back in order to move forward, reviving the art of classic-cocktail crafting. And as venerable drinks like the Sazerac and the Manhattan become more popular, the ingredients used to make them are also making a comeback. Case in point: rye whiskey, which is once again enjoying a moment in the spotlight. What is rye whiskey? A quick whiskey lesson: All whiskeys are distilled from a grain mash and then aged. The whiskey styles most Americans are familiar with are either bourbon whiskey or Tennessee whiskey; both contain at least 51 percent corn mash. American rye whiskey must contain at least 51 percent rye mash, which results in rye whiskey making its presence known in a more severe fashion, with a savory flavor, lots of black pepper notes and a slight bitter quality. Bourbon and Tennessee whiskeys tend to have more vanilla and caramel tones and may, to some palates, seem to be sweeter, creamier and smoother than ryes. A decade ago, rye was tough to find; only a few brands (including Rittenhouse, Old Overholt and Wild Turkey Rye) were available – though rye was really the first whiskey made by 18th-century Scotch-Irish settlers on American soil, it had all but disappeared from America’s liquor cabinets. It had been wildly popular prior to Prohibition, but America’s dry years changed Americans’ tastes. Moonshine and “bathtub gin,” along with imported Canadian whiskeys, were available and the popularity of other spirits was rising. By the time Prohibition was repealed, gin, vodka and other white spirits were in and whiskey was out. Rye whiskey was further doomed by corn’s relative affordability. But many of the classic whiskey cocktails in the limelight these days were originally made with rye whiskey, which means barkeeps into cocktail culture are using ryes more and more. American distillers are responding to the demand, and these days there are a good number of rye whiskeys on the market. Some of my personal favorites are (ri)1, Rittenhouse Rye, Old Overholt and Sazerac Rye. (ri)1 is an exciting new bottling from the Jim Beam family. Try (ri)1 in the original Sazarac cocktail; the dryness of this whiskey works well with the sweet and herbal elements of the drink. (For a Sazerac recipe, visit the Cocktail Recipes section under Wine & Spirits at www.saucemagazine.com.) Rittenhouse 100 is one of my favorites for a classic Manhattan. With hints of almond, maple syrup, vanilla and pepper, the whiskey doesn’t get lost in the mix. Check out the recipe below to really get the dry and peppery features to come out. It is also 100 proof, so hold on tight. Then raise your glass and toast to the continued resurgence of classic, properly crafted American cocktails. Certified sommelier Chad George is the general manager at Eclipse Restaurant at The Moonrise Hotel.